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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

It has been a long time since I encountered a bottle of 1995 Léoville Barton. It has a mature, slightly fungal bouquet, a little smudged and certainly without the precision or complexity of the 1995 Ducru Beaucaillou. Yet it develops a heart-warming camphor note with aeration, allied with used tea leaves. The palate is medium-bodied…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Haut-Brion is rich and virile, even in a vintage where it has less power than is the norm. My impression is that the 2017 is going to lie dormant for many years before it awakens, but its pedigree is quite obvious. Black cherry, plum, gravel, smoke, licorice and dark spice all burst out…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Haut-Brion was bottled 10-18 June. It impressed from barrel and it continues to do so now incarcerated in glass. It has an irresistible bouquet with ebullient red berry fruit, sous-bois, graphite and oyster shell, perhaps one of the most Burgundy-like aromatics that I can recall in this First Growth. The palate is beautifully…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Pape Clément has a bright nose with finely delineated blackberry, cassis and light violet scents that unfold nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and well balanced, with pliant tannins and a svelte, slightly peppery finish. The 2015 is lovely. Tasted blind at the 2015 Bordeaux Ten-Year-On tasting.

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Pape Clément is one of my favorite vintages from this decade in an era when they were producing full-throttle wines that could sometimes overwhelm. But this has a lovely, high-toned bouquet, with plush red fruit -tinged with cigar smoke and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy and savory in style. I might deduce…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru includes 50% whole bunches and matured in 50% new oak. The stems play an important part on the nose: mainly black fruit, loam, white pepper and bay leaf. There’s good complexity here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. Again, the whole bunches element is quite pronounced at the…