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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Moderately saturated medium red. Deeper aromas of plum, loganberry, milk chocolate and spice; seems more vibrant than the ’97 today. Good density and weight in the mouth; offers a penetrating sweetness and a smooth texture despite its lively acidity. Finishes youthfully fresh, with firm but not hard tannins and sneaky length.

Vertical Tasting of Château Trotanoy (Mar 2012)

(95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 3.72 pH; IPT 71; 13.5% alcohol): Bright ruby-red with a hint of garnet at the rim. Knockout deep, nuanced nose of blackcurrant, red cherry, violets and truffle. Supple, broad and full in the mouth, with smoky blackberry, caramel and spicy pepper flavors. The finish is long and silky, with…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Trotanoy, poured from magnum, is ferociously backward on the nose. With black cherries, raspberry coulis, truffle and touches of iodine with aeration, this threatens to overwhelm the senses. The palate is a beast: huge concentration, uncompromising with massive weight; this is a Pomerol that says, “Bugger off and come back in a decade.”…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep medium ruby. Ineffable, vibrant aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, minerals, violet, bitter chocolate and mint. Dense, rich and mouthfilling, but still a bit youthfully monolithic. Subtle notes of torrefaction and mint add complexity to the dark berry flavors. A wine of great finesse and class, likely to develop very slowly in bottle. Drink between…

In Good Taste: Branaire-Ducru 1928-2013 (Mar 2020)

The 1996 Branaire-Ducru is a delightful vintage and represents the pinnacle of that decade. It has an exquisite bouquet that is defined and focused: blackberry, pencil lead, tobacco and a touch of chimney soot after time. The palate is very pure with really fine tannin. There is a sense of panache and class about this…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(64% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 6% petit verdot; 3.81 pH; 12.9% alcohol): Dark red with a hint of amber at the rim. Aromatic nose of red cherry, cedar, graphite and orange peel, complicated by a leafy note. Fresh, clean flavors of redcurrant and spicy herbs linger well on the juicy, high-acid finish. Improved considerably…