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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(35% cabernet franc, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot) Deep ruby-red. Ripe aromas of blackberry and cassis along with oak-derived clove, cinnamon and coriander. Soft and supple on entry, with flavors similar to the aromas, then increasingly austere toward the back, finishing with mounting tannins and a persistent floral quality. There’s plenty of ripe fruit…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2010 Figeac has a deep hue. The nose is quite introverted at first, with dark berry fruit, incense, touches of fig and mulberry. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gorgeous pure fruit, mulberry and dark plum, gentle considering the vintage. This 2010 has softened in the last couple of…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, flowers and clove on the precise, vibrant nose. Then tight and imploded on the palate, with an almost minty, peppery austerity to the black and blue fruit flavors; hardly your typical 2010! This very pure, spicy Saint-Emilion has the structure of a cabernet, and its youthfully forbidding tannins call for at…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Cheval Blanc Blanc is a white of real depth and structural intensity. Citrus peel, almond, sage, mint and white pepper notes are highly nuanced and varietal in this 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Powerful and energetic in the glass, with terrific vibrancy, the 2016 has a lot to offer. Blocked malolactic fermentation and twenty months…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Le Petit Cheval has a primal nose of pink grapefruit, green apples and a touch of green asparagus, quite pure and focused, the Sauvignon component clearly in the driving seat. The palate is very well balanced with a supple opening and a fine bead of acidity, judiciously spiced with stem ginger and even…

Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Dec 2014)

The “Bollito not boiled” is one of Bottura’s classic dishes (seven different cuts of beef slowly cooked—for 36 hours—at a lower-than-usual temperature), while the “Beautiful, psychedelic…” veal creation is a far more modern Pollock-esque take on meat, but both match splendidly with Chave’s heavenly 1997 Hermitage Rouge. I’m not much for extremely rich, almost fat…