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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cantemerle has an initially perplexing nose, very outgoing with predominantly red berry fruit that feels too oaky. Then it coalesces with aeration, though there is quite a lot of reduction in evidence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and, again, mainly red fruit plus a touch of sea salt. Yet it lacks…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cantemerle has an initially perplexing nose, very outgoing with predominantly red berry fruit that feels too oaky. Then it coalesces with aeration, though there is quite a lot of reduction in evidence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and, again, mainly red fruit plus a touch of sea salt. Yet it lacks…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cantemerle is going through a challenging time. Mid-weight structure and harsh, angular tannins are penalizing. Dark cherry, graphite, dried herb and coffee struggle to emerge, but the 2018 never really fills out.

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, liquorice, hints of star anise and boysenberry jam, opulent and vivacious, a little glossy perhaps? The palate is medium-bodied with very supple and lithe tannin matched with a fine bead of acidity. Lovely balance here, fine tension with a insistent grip, layers of black fruit…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium ruby-red. Very ripe but subdued aromas of dark berries, black cherry, minerals, woodsmoke, mocha and smoky underbrush. Silky on entry, then utterly smooth and seamless in the middle, with outstanding concentration and lift to the berry, tobacco and hot rock flavors. Finishes with utterly noble tannins and outstanding, slowly building length and lingering perfume….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly, matured in 55% new oak, has a powerful, opulent and “daring” bouquet with layers of black fruit infused with cedar, graphite, pain grillé and pressed flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly savoury black fruit laced with pencil lead and spices. There is great depth and volume to this Haut-Bailly, allied with…