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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Superb dark ruby. Deeply pitched aromas of black raspberry, cassis and smoke. Lush, layered and sweet; already shows compelling inner-mouth flavor, surprising in light of the 3.6 pH, which is lower than normal for this wine. Still, the acids are harmonious and ripe. Longer and sweeter on the back end than the ’97. Tannins are…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

(scheduled to be bottled in December 2008) Vivid ruby. Intensely perfumed nose displays spicy red berry and cherry scents, with deeper cocoa and licorice qualities. Chewy, slightly bitter berry and cherry skin flavors are firmed by dusty tannins. Becomes sweeter on the finish, with the licorice note echoing. More powerful than the Chaillot but I…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d'Estournel is a racy, powerful Saint-Estèphe that is going to need quite a bit of time to find its center. Today, it is tightly wound, but all the energy is there. Lush and extravagantly ripe, the 2018 possesses tremendous depth and plenty of energy to back it all up. Here, too, I…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d’Estournel showed a lot of promise when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle and given a 2–3-hour decant, it has a gorgeous and disarmingly pure bouquet, slightly high-toned with iodine scents infusing the lush blackberry and boysenberry scents. The oak is seamlessly integrated. The palate is fresh and crisp on…