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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru has yet another reductive nose that at present obscures the terroir expression. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry. Plenty of concentration here and the acidity is taut and lends adequate tension. Touches of sour lemon on the marine-influenced finish. Give this 3-4 years…

The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)

Bright medium ruby. An essence of berries on the nose; like a liqueur, with an almost medicinal suggestion of sheer concentration. Superripe and incredibly lush; as thick as this is, there’s no heaviness thanks to its penetrating spiciness and solid backbone. Wonderfully perfumed in the mouth. Urgent finishing fruit currently hides the lush tannins. A…

1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Good deep red. Deeper aromas of black cherry, raspberry, pepper and licorice. Broad-shouldered but very closed, showing less sweetness today than the ’96 Pignan. Red fruit flavors complicated by notes of leather, licorice and herbs. Strong acid/tannin backbone for aging. But tough going today.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Coolish, discreet aromas of cherry, minerals and menthol. Broad, lush and pure; a step up in sweetness and flesh from this estate’s other 2005s but with strong mineral and crushed stone elements giving real punch to the red fruit and floral flavors. This has real grand cru weight and palate presence. Finishes…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full red-ruby color. Captivating aromas of cassis, cherry, tobacco, mocha, coffee and leather, with a complicating element of dried oregano and thyme. At once silky and penetrating in the mouth, with very firm acids for the vintage giving shape and thrust to the dense flavors of currant, tobacco and iodine. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lafite-Rothschild has an attractive perfumed bouquet with touches of camphor infusing the blackberry and bilberry fruit. There is a mahogany bureau hint. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy opening. The sharp acidity slightly jars against the sweet candied black fruit, with blood orange and white pepper toward the mocha-tinged finish. It’s missing…