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Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Opaque ruby. Intensely perfumed, spice- and mineral-accented blueberry, kirsch, fruitcake and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of incense and botanical herbs. Shows superb clarity and mineral thrust to its sweet black and blue fruit, cola, violet pastille and spicecake flavors, which deftly meld depth and vivacity. Finishes extremely long and smooth, with polished tannins…

Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

An assertively perfumed bouquet displays an array of ripe red and blue fruit preserve, floral and spice qualities, along with suggestions of licorice, smoky bacon fat and mineral notes. Effortlessly marries depth and energy and offers sweet cherry, crème de mûre and candied violet flavors sharpened by building mineral and spice flourishes. Shows noteworthy clarity…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full, deep red. Superripe aromas of redcurrant, plum, cherry, flowers and beefsteak tomato. Sweet, fat and full, but less wild and expressive today than the 2006. Distinct notes of milk chocolate and roasted berries. The major tannins currently cut off the wine’s fruit. Impressively rich but lacks a spark: is this too ripe for…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1995 Montrose has a backward bouquet with mainly red berry fruit, stewed black tea and brown spices, terracotta scents emerging with time. There is fine delineation; initially quite backward, as Montrose often can be, though it opens with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine weight, beautifully balanced, somehow quite “soothing” in…

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

(a library release; it was previously reviewed in July 2009) Deep red. A complex, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes candied red fruits, pipe tobacco and potpourri, while peppery spice and smoke flourishes build as the wine opens up. Sweet, seamless and expansive on the palate, offering cherry liqueur, rose pastille and spicecake flavors and a touch…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Montrose has an engaging and complex bouquet with black fruit, a pencil box, pressed violet and warm earth scents, gaining intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with excellent tannins that frame the mineral-rich black fruit (in fact, this is one of the most mineral-laden 2014 Left Banks I tasted.) The oak is…