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Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Luminous red. Complex aromas of red cherry, crushed stones, violet, rose and potpourri. Rich, dense and deep, offering flavors similar to the aromas and substantial, noble tannins that provide backbone and a refined austerity. Currently youthfully brooding, this will turn out to be richer, deeper and more complex than the 2013 classic Brunello. As that…

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again (Jan 2014)

The 2010 Barolo Mosconi, the estate’s first wine from this south-facing site in Monforte, is showing beautifully today. In this cold, late-ripening vintage, the south exposition and richness typical of this site give the Mosconi a level of mid-palate pliancy and richness the other 2010 Barolos don’t have. Mosconi has never given Barolos of finesse…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good deep red. Raspberry, cola and smoky, flinty minerality on the nose. Less open-knit than the Via Nuova but still broad, tactile and round, showing complex red fruit and mineral flavors and an obvious calcaire character. Finishes with broad, serious, building tannins and excellent mineral-driven persistence.

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2009 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a wine that turns everything up to 11. It was picked from September 15 at 29.4hl/ha with 13.6° alcohol, then matured for 17 months in new oak. There was some whole bunch here, although I do not know the exact percentage. The incredibly intense, powerful bouquet of…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good bright, deep red. Knockout nose combines cherry liqueur, raspberry jam, mocha and clove. At once velvety and energetic, with strong acidity enlivening the intense flavors of candied red fruits. The nobility of texture and tannins here is remarkable. Finishes extremely long and scented, with late suggestions of torrefaction. This made the very promising 2010…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Good bright, dark red. Lovely floral nebbiolo perfume of strawberry, cherry and violet complicated by licorice, bitter chocolate and wild herbs; I was reminded of the northern Cote de Nuits. Silky, generous and layered, with lovely aromatic, expressive nebbiolo character and much more inner-mouth perfume today than the 2004. The tannins are fine-grained but this…