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Chablis 2008 and 2007 (Jul 2009)

Bright, pale yellow-green. Knockout nose combines lime, metallic minerality and powdered stone. Wonderfully concentrated Preuses, offering a compelling combination of bracing citrus and mineral flavors and outstanding richness (the former coming from the southeast-facing vines and the latter from those facing west, notes director Stephane Follin-Arbelet). Wonderfully pure wine, finishing with outstanding cut, lift and…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Full red. Slightly medicinal aromas of redcurrant, plum, chocolate and herbs, along with a peppery nuance. Supple in texture but a bit subdued, with restrained sweetness and notes of herbs and minerals. I find this in an awkward stage today, and a tad dry and green on the back, but there’s firm spine and sneaky…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Floral, spicy aromas of black cherry, licorice and shoe polish. Thick and dense, with lovely sweetness and inner-mouth flavor. Boasts more volume than either the ’98 or ’97. Finishes thoroughly ripe, with rich, well-integrated tannins. A very strong vintage for this wine.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 62% cabernet franc and 38% merlot; 3.7 pH) Good, deep ruby-red. Deep, brooding but lively aromas of raspberry, strawberry, violet, licorice and minerals, plus an element of chocolate mint. Bright and fresh on entry, then shows a steely, austere quality to the strawberry, raspberry, tar and iodine flavors. Distinctly less floral and…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lafleur is showing a lot of Cabernet Franc on the nose. It is supremely well defined with incredibly clarity and terroir expression. You could almost mistake it for a Left Bank. Figeac? The palate is precise and detailed, touches of burnt toast and white pepper sprinkled over the persistent and structured finish that…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby. Captivating nose combines blackcurrant, blackberry syrup, vanilla, minerals, dried rose, violet and white pepper; the cabernet franc element (roughly 54% of the blend) really comes through. Sweet and pliant on entry, then more austere in the middle, with penetrating but youthfully reticent flavors of dark berries, minerals, coffee reduction, cocoa and tobacco leaf….