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2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Good medium red. Raspberry, redcurrant and strong spicy oak on the nose. Densely packed but a bit youthfully rough today, with raspberry and spicy oak flavors framed by sound acidity and substantial dusty tannins. Plenty of breadth and energy here but this grand cru will need at least a couple more years to harmonize in…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Durfort-Vivens is powerful, earthy and exotic, all at the same time. Rich red fruit, iron, dried herbs, mocha, anise, cedar and pipe tobacco all open in the glass. Durfort-Vivens is a decidedly rustic, burly Margaux in 2005, but it has enough depth and overall stuffing to drink well for another decade or more.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full red-ruby. High-pitched aromas of black fruits, licorice and burnt cinders; quite primary and grapey. Moderately sweet and youthful, with noteworthy concentration to the currant and licorice flavors. Not yet complex, but there’s plenty of underlying structure here for aging.

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2008 Lynch-Bages is deep in color with minor aging on the rim. The nose is well-defined but demands coaxing, almost reluctantly revealing blackberry, briary, tobacco and mint aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannins, lovely black fruit laced with tobacco and spice, dense and grippy. This is beautifully proportioned on the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru, which is departing winemaker François Millet’s final vintage, has a fragrant nose of mainly red fruit, redcurrant and wild strawberry, intermixed with light cassis, violet and peony scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, taut and fresh, quite saline with a lot of structure on the finish….

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Volnay Fremiet 1er Cru has a perfumed bouquet with redcurrant, raspberry sorbet and sous-bois aromas that offers a subtle balsam element with time. The palate is well balanced, fresh and vibrant with crunchy red berry fruit. Good acidity here, classic in style with a linear finish, a hint of pepperiness on the aftertaste….