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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet displaying impressive mineralité and tension. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Fine focus here, good energy and precision leading to spicy and persistent finish. Maybe not as classy as other Bâtard that I tasted, but let’s see how it will…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from three separate parcels located at both the bottom and the top of the clos. It has a well-defined bouquet of bright red berry fruit, cranberry, morello cherry and touches of pomegranate; an underlying tertiary note becomes more evident with aeration. The fleshy, generous palate is very…

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Opaque ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes spicy dark berries and potpourri, with zesty mineral and incense qualities adding complexity. Pliant boysenberry and candied lavender flavors are impressively fresh and focused, with a hint of licorice adding depth. Closes sweet, supple and broad, with resonating spiciness and gentle tannins that add shape and grip.

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Good ruby-red, considerably less saturated than the 2000. Sexy, sweet aromas of black plum, black raspberry and flowers; smells more like merlot, while the 2000 is more cabernet. Juicy and suave in the mouth, with subtle but intense flavors nicely firmed by juicy acids. Classy, impeccably balanced wine with very fine-grained tannins. While this is…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Lagrange is outclassed by its millennial counterpart, which is the opposite of their showings at the vertical two years earlier. Blackberry and cigar smoke feature on the nose, while the floral element is not quite as expressive here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, supple and cohesive, displaying just the right amount…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was picked on August 28, the first to be harvested this year. It tends to produce very small berries, according to Leroux, which is no doubt why the nose is very intense, with citrus fruit, lemon curd and light patisserie scents. The well-balanced palate is slightly viscous on the entry….