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Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Mouton-Rothschild has a sense of exuberance on the nose, with fleshy red berry fruit, briary, tobacco and light sous-bois scents. This does not have the intensity of the 2015 Latour at the moment. The palate is very well balanced with pliant tannins. It's harmonious and poised, with fine depth and silky texture, though…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Bright, dark red. Fresh, complex nose melds musky raspberry, smoky minerality, brown spices, mocha and underbrush. Lush and fat with fruit; in fact, this is amazingly opulent for 2006 but almost magically weightless. Finishes very long, sweet and perfumed, with substantial fine tannins and notes of game and spice. Very impressive.

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1998 La Mission Haut-Brion is the standout of the Nineties. It shows more purity and exuberance than the 1996, featuring sumptuous scents of black cherries, black olive, freshly rolled tobacco and hints of gravel, all wonderfully defined and quite precocious. The palate is likewise sweet and ripe, offering pliant tannins and layers of blackberry,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose of plum, redcurrant, roasted stones and spices. Big, rich, plummy and deep; boasts compelling mouthfilling sweetness. Plenty of spine beneath the flesh. Finishes very long and gripping, with sweet tannins for the year.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Latour was in fact the first vintage I ever tasted en primeur at the château. It was an early vintage after budburst on 20 March and the picking began on 20 September until 5 October, the Grand Vin a blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot (compared to around 9% these days), 4%…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Deep aromas of cassis, licorice and lead pencil. Deeper than Les Forts but currently rather mute in the middle. Strongly minerally. Offers classic Latour structure and spine. Finishes with sneaky, subtle persistence.