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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Cheval Blanc boasts stunning power and a vertical, imposing sense of structure that is quite rare in this vintage. Dark and almost brooding in style, the Cheval is a rare 2012 that absolutely demands cellaring. Smoke, tobacco, incense and dark spices open up with time, but the 2012 is a reticent, tannic wine…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(54% merlot and 46% cabernet franc): Good full ruby-red. Expressive, nuanced nose offers red cherry, strawberry, minerals and a hint of violet. Sweet and round on entry, then increasingly austere toward the back, with peppery and minty elements lifting the dark cherry and cassis flavors. I noticed some bottle variation with my samples on the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Cheval Blanc has a lovely bouquet with raspberry coulis, hints of marmalade and just a touch of espresso, nicely detailed though not intense. The palate is medium-bodied with a strict entry. This is quite backward and tight, lightly spiced with a touch of sour cherry and cracked black pepper on the finish. This…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(10% new oak): Bright medium red. Captivating nose offers aromas of cherry, brown spices, mocha, menthol and underbrush lifted by high notes of blood orange and flowers. Liqueur-like raspberry and spice flavors show outstanding precision and perfume thanks to a firm mineral spine. Finishes spicy, refined and very long, saturating the mouth without leaving any…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Full red-ruby. Pure, subtly perfumed aromas of blackberry, spices and licorice. Dense but youthfully linear, showing lovely finesse of texture to its tight-grained flavors of dark fruits, spices and saline minerality lifted by violet. With its compact kernel of fruit, this is neither sweet nor easygoing today, but its precision and definition call to mind…

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

Vivid ruby. Heady aromas of fresh blackberry, boysenberry and smoky minerals are complicated by pungent hints of vanilla, violet and allspice. Lush, intensely flavored and focused, offering deep dark berry and cherry compote flavors and a suave spicecake nuance. Finishes smooth, sweet and very long, with resonating spiciness, a hint of licorice and fully absorbed…