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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Beaune Tuvilains 1er Cru, which includes around 40% whole-bunch fruit and 30% new oak, feels a little smudged compared to the Teurons. The medium-bodied palate offers supple tannins. Fleshier than Les Teurons but without the same level of structure or grip on the finish. Drink this over the next decade.

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

Bright yellow-green. Captivating nose combines stone fruits, white truffle, minerals and spicy vanillin oak. Broad, sweet and seamless, with a lush texture perfectly supported by harmonious ripe acidity. Superconcentrated wine with a dusty impression of dry extract. Most impressive today on the unflagging finish. Delivers a compelling combination of breadth and energy.

Wines from Italy’s Volcanic Arc: Campania (Jan 2022)

An intense burst of medicinal cherries and dried herbs gives way to smoke and hints of white pepper as the 2017 Aglianico Eremo San Quirico opens in the glass. This settles with time, showing more black fruit and dusty florals. It’s silky and weighty in feel, almost glycerol-like, in fact, with a dense wave of…

Close to the Edge: Chablis 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Côte de Léchet 1er Cru comes from 50-year-old vines and is aged for 12 months in stainless steel vat. There is a touch of melted candle wax on the nose, underneath which lie subtle sea spray aromas. The palate is very well balanced, with a harmonious, almond and vanilla-extract-tinged opening that does…

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1991 Yquem is my fourth encounter with this vintage that is better than the vintage reputation. This is more fragrant than the 1993 and 1994 on the nose, fig jam mixed with Aszú-like fruit, a subtle adhesive scent in the background. The palate is well balanced with a tangy entry and a keen thread…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2020 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru comprises just a single barrel…but what a barrel! Stunning mineralité and tension on the nose, with slate and sea spray aromas. It’s precise and focused, with hints of orange blossom coming into view with aeration. The palate has tremendous depth. It’s harmonious and pixelated, with crustacea notes toward the…