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Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2010 Clos de Tart Grand Cru vies with the 2005 and 2009 as the best wine Sylvain Pitiot made during his tenure. It was picked from September 28 to October 6 at just 21hl/ha with 13.6° alcohol (no La Forge de Tart produced). The detailed, extraordinarily pure bouquet displays impressive focus. If anything, this…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Good full red. Deep, sweet, classic Clos de Tart aromas and flavors of dark raspberry, dried flowers, minerals and fresh violet and rose. Dense, round, superripe and compellingly sweet but not a bit roasted. Utterly mouthfilling, fine-grained wine with a broad, wonderfully sweet finish that saturates the entire palate and builds impressively. The serious, noble…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Clos de Tart is still a work in progress, but this early tasting is fascinating. Layers of deep, dark fruit nearly jump from the glass in this exotic, full-bodied Clos de Tart. Crushed flowers, violets and spices develop over time as the wine gains its easy upper register. The tannins are very firm,…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Léoville-Barton shows remarkable freshness and overall vivacity. Succulent black cherry, plum, violet and blood orange create a distinctive combination of dark fruit and brisk, pulsating acidity. Today, the 2014 comes across as very tight and closed, which is probably good thing for the future. Readers should plan on cellaring the 2014 for at…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Barton has a seductive and beautifully composed bouquet with ample brambly red fruit, sous-bois and light pencil shavings scents. This has real finesse. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, a keen line of acidity and more salinity than its peers. What feels like top-quality new oak smooths the finish but…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Dark ruby. Bright blackcurrant and cherry aromas are complicated by violet and cedar: strikes me as deeper and richer nose than usual for Kirwan. Then somewhat more brooding in the mouth, with an austere quality but sneaky concentration to the herbal and inky dark fruit flavors. I like this wine’s very fresh delivery of fruit,…