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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Léoville–Las Cases, bottled July 2021, retains the energetic, vivacious bouquet that I noticed last year from the barrel sample, offering intense blackberry, bilberry and still those faint shucked oyster shell scents in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful detail and precision, a mixture of black and blue fruit and enthralling clarity…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Haut-Brion is a deep, meaty wine. Black cherry, game, smoke, tobacco, licorice, gravel and scorched earth saturate every corner of the palate. The 2005 is inky, creamy and voluptuous right out of the gate. It is also very young and in need of time in bottle. Most wines I tasted for this report…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Wonderfully expressive nose combines black raspberry, mocha, hot stones, caramel and tobacco. Lush, fat and full but with terrific definition and suavity to its extravagantly dense black raspberry, stone and licorice flavors. As large-scaled as this is, it’s not at all overly sweet. Expands impressively on the back half, finishing with substantial tannins…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 2% cabernet franc; pH 3.72; 75 IPT; 70% new oak) Purple ruby. Smoky blackberry, blueberry juice, chocolate and a whiff of iron on the nose. With air, this became silky, pliant and rather easygoing, with good depth to the flavors of small dark berries and flint. Finishes with creamy…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand Puy-Lacoste has a clean and precise bouquet with graphite infused red berry fruit, woodland scents, fern and touches of autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite bold and assertive with dried blood and ferrous notes infusing the red fruit towards the persistent finish. You could broach this now although…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good medium ruby. Ripe, slightly high-toned aromas and flavors of cassis and chocolate, lifted by cedar and minerals. Then more dark berries and minerals in the mouth, complicated by a candied violet nuance. Not particularly large-scaled in what is a generally exotic, very ripe vintage, but intensely flavored and very well delineated, offering an enticing…