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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jouises Vieilles Vignes comes from two lieu-dits in the south of the appellation, matures in 25% new oak and with 50% whole bunches. It has a well defined bouquet with crushed stone infusing the red berry fruit, just a touch of mint developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy…

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Chablis Valmur is bright, vivid and beautifully focused in the glass. In 2010 the Valmur has lovely minerality to balance the wine’s tendency towards opulence. Mint, flowers and white peaches come to life on the nuanced, articulate finish. This is a great showing. I love the pure energy here.

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 L’Infini is rich, powerful and explosive, with tremendous fruit density and overall opulence. Black cherry, chocolate, spice, leather and licorice all flesh out in this potent, racy wine. The 100% new oak is lavish, but it works.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 La Dominique is a wine of density and power. Inky red fruit, cedar, new leather, tobacco, holiday spice cake, mocha and torrefaction give La Dominique its heady, extroverted personality. Extraction is pushed, and there is quite a bit of oak, but it all works well. I would prefer to drink the 2005 over…

An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2005 La Dominique impressed out of barrel but strangely I never encountered it again. Quite deep in appearance, it has a fresh and vibrant bouquet with ample red cherries, mulberry and allspice aromas that soar from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, smooth in texture with…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red. Plum, truffle, leather, coffee and mocha on the nose. Fat, lush and sweet, with the truffley quality carrying through onto the palate. The major tannins reach the incisors. Not exactly an elegant style, but there’s plenty of material here.