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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Red- and blackcurrant, licorice, chocolate mint and sexy oak tones on the nose. Dense, solidly built and youthfully backward, with strong acidity and a medicinal quality leavening the sweetness of this plush, seamless wine. Most impressive today on the very long finish, which features a firm spine of dusty tannins, hints of cedary…

Day by Day: South Africa in 2025 (Oct 2025)

The 2016 Vin de Constance is conspicuously less amber in hue than the ’12. It has an exquisite nose with pure honey, quince and marmalade scents that soar from the glass. The palate is very smooth and harmonious, more unctuous than the ’12, with a killer line of acidity and a sense of mineralité tucked…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium ruby-red. Ripe, sappy aromas of boysenberry and currant, with a strong floral note. Supple, concentrated and thoroughly ripe, with noteworthy concentration for a second wine. Finishes with ripe tannins and a hint of bitter chocolate.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Pichon-Baron repeats its performance from the vertical tasting in May 2018. It storms from the glass, bearing copious blackberry, cedar and perhaps a little more mint than I noticed on the previous bottle. There is so much youthful zeal to this harmonious, refined Pauillac that you would barely guess it is 30 years…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Impressive saturated ruby color. Pure, classic Pauillac aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate, menthol and flowers. Very intensely flavored, precise and penetrating, with an extremely primary flavor of cassis. Almost magically light on its feet owing to its rather strong acidity. A very young, extremely long wine with great tensile strength. May yet merit a…

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ The Bull, Charlbury, UK (Sep 2025)

The 1989 Pichon Baron is a wine that I have enjoyed many times, and it is just wonderful. Graphite and tobacco interlace on the intense, black-fruited nose that could only be born in Pauillac, old school in some ways and yet still brimming with vigour. The palate has fabulous balance, impressive weight and backbone, with…