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Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2007 Brut Millésime Grand Cru is soft, open-knit and quite approachable young, especially for an Egly Champagne. This is an especially pliant, supple Champagne. Dried pear, brioche, mint, chamomile, dried flowers and lightly honeyed notes resonate in the glass. In 2007, the Millésime is 100% Ambonnay fruit. Today, the 2007 gives the impression that…

Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)

We began with the 2007 Brut Vintage from Egly-Ouriet. Without entering the cause célèbre about price hikes, this bottle did explain why it enjoys such a fanatical following. At 17 years of age, it has evolved into a quite entrancing bouquet, a little yeasty, with hints of lemon sherbet and Japanese yuzu, all delivered with…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a more complex bouquet than the Meursault Charmes: dried honey, frangipane, cockle shells and light white chocolate flecks. The new oak (20%) is neatly integrated. The palate is very well-balanced with a silver bead of acidity. It does not quite match the aromatics in the mouth, perhaps…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Chambolle Musigny La Combe d’Orveau bursts from the glass with freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries, mint, anise and raspberries, all in a surprisingly rich, broad shouldered style. A radiant, voluptuous wine, the 2012 captures the essence of the year in its rich fruit and equally vibrant, pulsating minerality. This is a great…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

(from vines averaging 45 years of age): Bright medium red. Reduced nose hints at red fruits. Juicy and imploded, showing less stuffing than the Nuits Charmois. I get more saline character than primary fruit today. Hard to judge in its current phase.

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1962 Cheval Blanc has never really captivated me as much as I would expect, though this is definitely the best that I have had. It has a very classically styled nose with touches of black fruit, leather, aniseed and the interior of a stately home with all those warped floorboards and wainscoting. The palate…