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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a delineated bouquet, 100% whole stems lending a light pepperiness, a touch of wild mint in the background. The palate is well balanced with crunchy red fruit, lots of black pepper here with a light finish that just needs a little more density. Fine, though in such company it…

Roederer Cristal: That ’70s Show (Jun 2017)

One of the surprises in this tasting, the 1977 Cristal is shockingly beautiful. Delicate and gracious in the glass, the 1977 is a bit slow out of the gate, but then gains freshness and focus with air. Candied orange peel, hazelnut, dried flowers and dried herbs give the 1977 its striking aromatic lift. Wonderfully alive…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Opaque ruby. Heady dark berry preserve, incense, olive paste and exotic spice aromas show excellent clarity and pick up mineral and cola nuances with air. Broad, sappy and appealingly sweet, offering palate-staining black and blue fruit, violet pastille and spicecake flavors and a suggestion of candied licorice. Tightens up on the extremely persistent finish, which…

Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

(bottled in early September of 2015; all of the 2014s were bottled before the 2015 harvest): Very backward nose hints at saline oyster shell minerality, flint, yeast and toast, complicated by a balsamic quality. Extremely dry, saline and uncompromising; by a wide margin the most difficult to taste today among Droin’s premier crus. Finishes salty…

Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

Very pale lemon-yellow. Vibrant aromas of white peach, grapefruit, lemon and crushed stone. Bigger and sweeter than the Vaulorent, showing grand cru weight but not quite the same energy or cut as the premier cru. This very backward, saline wine communicates an impression of strong dry extract and citrus thrust. The yield here was at…

Santa Barbara: Out of Many, One (Aug 2025)

The 2022 Chardonnay is rich, cool-toned and leesy, showing honeyed apple, golden mango, toasted spice and a touch of cinnamon over a grippy spine of acid and phenolics. Beneath the voluptuous fruit lies tension and drive that keep the wine on point. It carries weight, yet everything is balanced by structure and lift.