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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Ducru-Beaucaillou just precedes their difficult period in the latter half of the decade when they suffered an infection in one of their storage houses. This is an impressive follow-up to the excellent 1982. It is very perfumed on the nose, floral with blackberry, mint, peony and melted tar mixed with freshly-rolled tobacco. The…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Medium red. Red cherry and flowers on the very ripe nose. Silky and sweet in the mouth but with lovely vinosity and floral lift to the almost candied red berry flavors. In a distinctly Burgundian style, finishing with suave tannins and noteworthy aromatic lift.

Piemonte: 2009 and 2010 Barbaresco Plus Other New Releases (Oct 2012)

The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè wraps around the palate with layers of dark fruit, spices and menthol. Today, the Pajè is one of the more open of the 2008 Riservas, but there is plenty going on in the glass. Sweet floral and spiced notes add lift on the finish. As good as the Pajè is,…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good full red. More spicy and less floral on the nose than the Paje, offering a scent of musky redcurrant. Less lively on the palate too, showing a firm tannic spine to the redcurrant and tobacco flavors. The tannins build on the aftertaste. In contrast to the two 2009s, this wine is more structured than…

Piemonte: 2009 and 2010 Barbaresco Plus Other New Releases (Oct 2012)

Playing true to type, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is another of the more open wines in this vintage. But that is only in relative terms. Layers of expressive red fruit, crushed flowers and spices flesh out in this radiant Barbaresco. In most vintages the Pora is one of the more accessible of the Riservas…

Cellar Favorite: 2002 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile (Jun 2015)

Made from grapes culled from the Geisberg and Osterberg grand crus, Trimbach’s Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile is believed by many wine lovers and experts all over the world to have only one problem. That is, having the even more mythical Riesling Clos Ste.Hune under the same family ownership, which fatally removes some of the spotlight from Frédéric Emile,…