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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 La Lagune is a wine that I last tasted at the vertical with Caroline Frey. Four years later, it has a tertiary nose, a little rustic for my liking, with raspberry pastilles and a touch of aniseed that I never picked up on the previous bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins,…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2003 Chateau Musar is a very pretty, aromatic wine. Rosewater, dried flowers, orange peel and cinnamon all open up in the bouquet. The 2003 is an attractive, translucent Musar that should drink well for another decade or more. Ripe red cherry, kirsch, hard candy and mint linger. The 2003 opens up nicely, but remains…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2015 Sassicaia is incredibly elegant, perfumed and light on its feet. It has become even more wonderfully refined since I last tasted it. Sweet floral and spiced notes lead into a core of sweet red and purplish berry fruit. When it was younger, the 2015 was quite potent. Today, my impression is that, while…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Palmer is a very different “beast” than the 2001, and I use that word intentionally. This is much more feral on the nose, and quite ferrous, presenting leather and dried herbs, smudged red berry fruit, and a hint of fig that emerges with time. The brettanomyces sticks out a bit here. The palate…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good full ruby-red. Knockout nose combines blackberry, violet, espresso, graphite and licorice. Then impressively sweet in the mouth, even slightly roasted; comes across as rather aggressive following the leaner, high-pitched 2002. Extremely rich, full Palmer but a bit brutal today, and not currently showing the perfume it displayed from barrel. The wine’s substantial but ripe…

Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Opaque purple. Dark berry compote and smoky Indian spices on the intensely perfumed nose, which is complicated by notes of incense and licorice pastille. Deep, sappy and broad on the palate, offering sweet flavors of black and blue fruit liqueur and spicecake. Gains energy as well as depth with aeration, finishing with powerful notes of…