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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Aromas of lemon drop, stone and toast. Frothy, lemony and harmonious; nicely concentrated but shows a light touch for the year. From its brisk acidity and bracing lemon-lime and quinine flavors, I might have picked this for a ’96. Finishes subtle and long, with lovely lingering citrus flavors.

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Classic Meursault aromas of soft citrus fruits and hazelnut. Rich, sweet and suave, with soft citrus fruit, lemon, hazelnut and vanilla flavors supported by a solid stony backbone. Conveys an impression of volume without any undue weight. A textbook Meursault with lovely persistence. (From barrel, it was the Tillets that stood out, but today this…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Musky, complex aromas of citrus peel, stone and hazelnut. Juicy, pure and light on its feet, with pronounced minerality giving the wine a distinctly high pitch. Finishes with noteworthy persistence. A terrible hailstorm on the north side of the village cut yields but did not affect quality, said Roulot, as the affected grapes dried out…

2024 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Sassicaia is one of the best young Sassicaias I can remember tasting, certainly on par with anything in recent memory. The preference here is picking on the earlier side relative to many neighboring properties, which is one of the reasons Sassicaia is always a wine of refinement more than opulence. At the same…

2015 Barolo – The Late Releases (Nov 2019)

The 2014 Barolo Monprivato is one of the finest Barolos I have tasted from the Mascarello family in a number of years. That is all the more remarkable considering a challenging growing season in which conditions were so tough that Mauro Mascarello did not want to show me his vineyard that summer. In the glass,…

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis La Moutonne Monopole Grand Cru is a powerful, savory wine. Of all the 2018s, is one of the most reticent, inward wines in this range. It will need time to soften the hard tannins in this powerful, tightly wound wine. It will be interesting to see if it develops more nuance in…