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Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

Delamotte’s 2007 Blanc de Blancs is deep, fleshy and seductive, with lovely textural depth and nuance throughout. The 2007 is a relatively soft, open-knit Delamotte that will drink well upon release. I especially admire the wine’s sense of balance and overall proportion, two of the many qualities that give the 2007 its considerable appeal.

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Opus One is a wine of real breadth and power. Black cherry, plum, leather and spice flesh out effortlessly, but what stands out most is the wine's textural intensity and sheer power. Readers will have to wait a number of years until the 2016 is at its best, but it is clearly another…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Talbot might be one of the most underestimated wines of the Left Bank. This bottle was my own contribution and it outflanked some of the more expensive, better reputed Saint-Julien wines. Captivating on the nose, classical through and through, this is fresh and vibrant, a bit leaner than the Ducru-Beaucaillou though with more…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Lafite-Rothschild put in a great performance at this dinner. In fact, this bottle was better than one opened at the château in 2018. Stunning delineation, almost crystalline, with youthful, mineral-laden black fruit laced with truffle and allspice. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with finely woven tannins, perfect acidity and a real peacock’s…

The Judgement of Clapham Junction (Mar 2022)

The 2014 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru put in a strong showing. Taut and fresh, it has a perfumed nose with freshly baked popcorn, almond, mirabelle and jasmine that gain complexity with time. The palate is quite spicy on the entry, hints of apricot and wild peach blossom with a wonderfully-detailed and sustained finish. This is very…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright lemon-yellow color. Ripe yellow fruits, mirabelle, spices, menthol and sexy oak tones on the rather restrained nose. Big, rich and full but with a light touch thanks to its lemony acidity and underlying smoky minerality. Conveys an impression of power but its baby fat also gives it a silky texture. Best today on the…