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Cellar Favorites: 1996 & 1985 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Feb 2016)

What a treat it is to taste these two Pichon Lalandes straight from the chateau’s cellar. The 1996 Pichon Lalande is stratospheric from the very first taste. The deep, layered bouquet alone is deeply transfixing. Smoke, mocha, dark spices, lavender, crème de cassis, a host of dark-fleshed fruits and a touch of warm, resonant sweetness from the…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of my favorite wines from this period. A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, it has a quintessential Pauillac nose: very intense, brilliant and delineated, with pure blackberry, graphite and mint aromas bursting from the glass. The palate seems to…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Very sexy aromas of currant, blackberry and brown sugar, all lifted by an ineffable floral quality from the thoroughly ripe cabernet sauvignon that comprises three-quarters of the blend. Dense, fresh and thick with extract; a wonderful combination of texture and guts. Has a core of steel and a powerful structure I haven’t found…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Cheval Blanc goes through phases. I have seen brilliant bottles and others that were slightly underwhelming. This is a fine example, although blind it clearly does not possess the sheer grandeur of the ’82 Lafleur, and is slightly more savoury thanks to the Cabernet Franc, with hints of meat juice and terracotta. Very…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a fragrant bouquet of crushed rose petals and briar infusing the airy red berry fruit. The palate is well balanced with pure red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, a hint of dark chocolate and a finely proportioned, smooth finish. Very fine.

Chablis 2023 & 2024: Five Baskets (Jul 2025)

The 2023 Chablis Les Séchets 1er Cru has a detailed and mineral-driven bouquet that evokes images of the dark and stormy sea. This has wonderful salinity—it really benefits from no wood contact. The palate is old-school Chablis, with green apple and pear scents. It’s a little strict, yet there is real depth and grip here….