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2009 Barolo: Highs and Lows, Part 2 (Oct 2013)

The 2009 Barolo Vigna Rionda Tommaso Canale is an intriguing wine. The magic of Rionda is there. The soft, barely perceptible tannins. The haunting aromatics. But in 2009 this is a wine still made by Tommaso Canale, with all of its imperfections and achingly unrealized potential. Needless to say, it will be interesting to see…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru contains around two-thirds whole bunches. The Ruchottes-Chambertin immediately puts the Charmes-Chambertin in its place with more fruit intensity; the limestone terroir percolates through with aplomb. The palate displays exquisite balance and transparency, linear at first and then fanning out towards the finish whilst upholding its mineral line. Hardcore…in a good…

Tuscany Part 1: Chianti, Vino Nobile and Supertuscans (Jul 2012)

Good deep red. Aromas of redcurrant, plum, minerals and licorice are complicated by a gamey quality. Nicely delineated if a bit tight and ungiving, with a floral topnote contributing to the wine’s high-pitched character. Finishes with firm tannic grip and a strongly savory, aromatic edge. I wanted a bit more pliancy, but then that’s the…

The Bordeaux Effect (Jun 2012)

Bright medium red. Captivating, complex aromas of red cherry, raspberry, rose petal, fresh herbs and tobacco. Densely packed, suave and fine-grained, with lovely floral lift and energy and a texture that reminded me of Burgundy. Finishes with subtle fine but firm tannins and enticing rising length. This classic perfumed sangiovese is balanced to age but…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Medium ruby-red. Scented nose offers plum, mocha, licorice, graphite, flowers and tobacco. Suave, silky and fine-grained, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic character and energy. Perfumed flavors of redcurrant, minerals and cedar. Finishes very long and firm, with terrific grip for this mostly gentle vintage.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright yellow. Very shy aromas of pear, crushed rock and iodine; conveys an almost 2015-like ripeness without any loss of its Montrachet character. This brooding, thick, sappy wine began a bit shy but gained in vibrancy and definition with oxygen, conveying increasing purity. Dominated today by crushed-stone minerality and medicinal herbs, this reserved, utterly seamless…