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Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

The 2017 Poggio alle Gazze brings together the natural richness of the year with the lift of Sauvignon Blanc. Orchard fruit, lime, mint and white flowers add brightness to this impeccably balanced, refreshing white from Tenuta dell’ Ornellaia. The blend is 81% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Vermentino, 6% Viogner and 3% Verdicchio. Drink it over the…

Tuscany Part 2: The Tuscan Coast, More Supertuscans et al (Sep 2012)

(mainly sangiovese, with cabernet franc, merlot and malvasia nera): Good medium-deep red. Black cherry, redcurrant, licorice and menthol aromas are lifted by a floral element that carries through on the palate. Flavors of dark cherry, licorice and underbrush are complicated by a tarry quality. Finishes suave and smooth, with harmonious tannins and good subtle, spicy…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Castello di Ama is going through a very beautiful phase right now. It was quite Burgundian and refined from barrel, then shut down considerably after bottling. Today, it shows lovely inner perfume and sweetness. The cool, restrained personality of the year comes through, but there is also plenty of understated…

Power and Energy: The 2018 and 2017 Northern Rhônes (Apr 2020)

Deeply saturated ruby. Powerful, mineral-accented cherry and blackberry scents are complemented by hints of exotic spices, violet and licorice. Supple and broad on the palate, offering intense black and blue fruit, spicecake, salty olive and violet pastille flavors that become sweeter as the wine takes on air. The floral note carries strongly through the lively,…

2015 Barolo…The Bigger Picture (Feb 2019)

Soaring aromatics make a strong opening statement in the 2015 Barolo Ravera. Bright, precise and finely sculpted, the Ravera captures all the best the 2015 vintage has to offer. Kirsch, sweet mint, hard candy and expressive floral notes are given an extra kick of inner sweetness from the natural energy of Ravera. There is so…

Bending Rules: Les Carmes Haut-Brion 1955-2019 (Oct 2022)

The 2017 Le C des Carmes Haut-Brion has a deep hue in the glass. The powerful nose, when served blind, might come from say, Cornas! It eventually reveals more nuance. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, quite pure, rounded in style, silky smooth with bulbous, red berry fruit laced with white pepper and…