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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Superb floral lift to the aromas of stone and citrus fruits, minerals and smoke. Compellingly silky, even thick, on entry, but with terrific inner-mouth mineral lift shaping and intensifying the wine’s lemon and floral flavors. Dense with dry extract, this outstanding 2016 premier cru leaves the salivary glands quivering on the very long, slow-building finish….

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2014 Vieux Château Certan comes from two bottles, the first out of condition. The second has a potent Cabernet Franc-driven nose, which is no surprise, as it comprises 30% of the blend: bell pepper and black pepper infusing the black fruit. There is almost a Loire-like scent. The palate is medium-bodied with granular tannins,…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Pontet Canet has a lovely bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, cedar and subtle tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy ripe tannins, smooth texture and a sheen of classy new oak with a dab of spice that enlivens the finish. The 2015 is primal for being ten years…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Pape Clément Blanc is airy, weighty and so inviting. Hints of tangerine, passion fruit, white flowers and mint all lift from the glass. In the recent past, the Blanc has been oily and unctuous. There is plenty of textural depth to the 2017, but what impresses me most is its understatement and refinement….

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pape-Clément Blanc, 15% aged in concrete eggs, needs a little aeration, eventually revealing dried honey, praline and almond aromas, a little earthier than previous vintages. The palate is very well balanced with a lightly spiced entry. There is a fine bead of acidity here, quite saline in the mouth. I find the oak…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has an exquisite bouquet with blackberry, mint, meat juice and sage. It's perhaps not as noble as Pichon Baron at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit and a killer line of acidity. This is slightly more savory than the Pichon Baron due to the…