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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Dark red-ruby. Plum, chocolate and some exotic smoky oak on the nose. Lush, smooth and sweet but not at all over the top; offers unusual volume and breadth for Branaire. The exotic aspect carries through on the palate, and yet this wine is holding plenty of material in reserve. Finishes with building tannins and excellent…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Branaire Ducru has a cohesive bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, iris flower and cedar scents plus a light touch of pencil shavings in the background. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine structure, good density (in an era when that was not always the case apropos this estate) and gentle grip…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru has tasted brilliantly before, though this bottle was not in the same leagues. It is quite a high-toned, flashy bouquet with just a touch of VA that ebbs with aeration, though never fully. There is a soupçon of dark chocolate that infuses the red fruit. Interestingly, this was always…

Vinous Table: Mount Sinai Charity Dinner at Saison (Nov 2019)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru is the most ethereal of the three wines in this flight. Whole cluster influence is especially marked here. A whole range of spice, dried flower, mint and savory overtones infuse the 2009 with layers of nuance. Next to the other wines in this flight, La Tâche is ethereal and…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Subtle, sweet perfume of black raspberry, spices and truffle. Compellingly sweet, sexy wine with terrific vinosity to frame its ripe berry, floral and underbrush flavors. The wine’s inner-mouth aromatic character owes more to spices and earth than to high-pitched fruits and flowers, but this is like bottled pheromones. Finishes with powerful mouthdusting tannins…

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

Brioche, dried pear, smoke, almonds, chamomile and wild herbs are all laced together in Krug’s 2000 Vintage. A wine of striking depth and resonance, the 2000 is absolutely gorgeous today. The first signs of very early tertiary complexity have begun to appear while the acidity is softening, both of which make the 2000 delicious today….