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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Saint-Romain Cuvée de la Mésange has a delicate lime flower and orange-blossom-tinged bouquet. The palate is well balanced with a pleasant fatness, and quite saline with a tang of lemongrass on the finish. Early-drinking but well crafted.

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2016 Barolo is medium in body, classically austere and full of character. Sweet red cherry, mint, white pepper, cedar, tobacco and dried flowers emerge, but only with great reluctance. I would not be in any rush to open bottles soon. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Barolos will adore the 2016. Patience is key here.

Twenty Years that Transformed the Argentine Wine Industry (Oct 2020)

Gran Enemigo Cabernet Franc 2016 is a unique, intense little pearl. Mixed with 15% Malbec, it is all open expression, delivering violets, sour cherry and blood with wet stone and hints of herb alongside subtle notes of arugula and dry flowers. In the mouth, it’s extremely energetic, the tannins filling out the profile and marshaling…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2019 Giscours has been a little variable from bottle to bottle. This is definitely one of the better ones: more defined and mineral-driven than the ’18, with blackberry, wild strawberry and cedar unfolding on the nose. The oak is neatly integrated. Very poised, the palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, lightly spiced with white…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2021)

The 2018 Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori offers a beguiling mix of Sangiovese energy and Cabernet Sauvignon savoriness. Translucent and energetic, the 2018 has much to offer. I would prefer to see a bit more Sangiovese character, but the Marchese is designed to be a sort of mini-Tignanello and it leans towards the more savory…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(bottled the day before my late-May visit): Orange juice, peach and a hint of spice on the nose. Pure and focused, with lovely acidity and calcaire-driven minerality giving the middle palate a very taut quality. Finishes precise and long, with excellent cut and grip. I’d wait four or five years to pull the cork.