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Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2010 Giscours continues to bear traits of mocha and dark chocolate on the nose, with a touch of wild mint and bold black fruit, though the 2009 has more nuance. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, very concentrated, still a little oaky, and quite bold again on the finish that is overtly peppery….

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blackberry and licorice pastille on the nose. Then sweet, juicy and energetic in the mouth, with complex flavors of plum, currant, cedar, tobacco and spices along with a gamey nuance. Firmly built but not hard. Finishes with serious but fine-grained tannins and a note of licorice. Still a bit strict today, this…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

(a blend of 71% cabernet sauvignon and 29% merlot): Fully saturated ruby-purple with inky highlights. Captivating nose of cassis, violet, gunflint and aromatic herbs; this struck me as being very dominated by its cabernet component. Fresh, rich and dense, with palate-staining flavors of dark berries, coffee and cocoa complicated by ink and graphite. Very complex…

Vinous Table: L’Ardente, Washington, D.C., United States (Jun 2025)

The 2000 Château Margaux is one of the standouts of the millennial year. This bottle is consistent with the example two years ago, with tightly coiled black fruit, pencil box and violet scents, perhaps the floral element more expressive this time around. The palate has marvellous balance, real weight and density that is atypical for…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Penetrating, highly perfumed aromas of sappy dark berries, violet and minerals; seems less oaky today than the ’01. Offers compelling mouthfilling concentration and perfume. A wine of great power and consistency, with a pungent minerality lingering on the palate-staining finish. This somehow doesn’t flag or grow narrower even after one swallows or spits….

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Latour has a slightly more powerful nose than the Lafite-Rothschild, with hints of black olive, sage and sous-bois infusing the black fruit. But it doesn’t fully reach the complexity of the best vintages of Latour. The palate has a wonderful backbone and grip, with hints of cooked meat. It sedately shimmies into its…