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Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(LD210008): Bright gold. Pungent aromas of candied orange, buttered toast, pear skin and vanilla, with a smoky nuance that gains power in the glass. Stains the palate with intense pear liqueur, citrus pith and brioche flavors, picking up notes of licorice and candied ginger with air. A bright mineral note adds lift and energy to…

Vinous Table: Ploussard, London, UK

At 30 years old, the 1996 Vintage is developing an iridescent straw hue, though not particularly deep. The nose is engaging with walnut, warm bread and light smoky scents of moderate intensity. The palate has the presence one expects from a mature Krug, a very subtle background oxidative element mingling with orange bitters and a…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(95% vendange entier): Medium red. Knockout deep nose combines small red fruits, sexy vanillin oak, a distinctly wild animal quality, soil tones and a note of menthol. Powerful but youthfully closed, with intense raspberry and strawberry fruit flavors complicated by sweet spices and a rocky quality. The explosive, ripely tannic finish builds and mounts. This…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Exotic and intense to the core, Tremblay’s 2012 Chapelle-Chambertin is wonderfully expressive from the very first taste. Orange peel, white pepper and savory herbs all add layers of nuance in a powerful, explosive yet lifted wine endowed with superb depth. Tremblay used 95% whole clusters here. My sense is that the 2012 needs quite a…

Sassicaia from Magnum at Vinous Icons: Italy

The 2013 Sassicaia is every bit as majestic as I hoped it would be. The 2013 was so impressive from barrel, but in bottle it struck me as a bit dull. This magnum brings back vivid memories of my first tastings. Powerful and vibrant, with present tannins, the 2013 still needs time to be at…

2011 Brunello di Montalcino: Terroir Matters (Feb 2016)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli is magnificent. Huge swaths of tannin coat the palate as the 2010 shows off its power, breadth and overall intensity. Plum, black cherry, bittersweet chocolate, smoke, licorice and cloves are some of the many notes that hit the palate. The Riserva is dark, powerful and brooding. It…