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Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

Vega-Sicilia’s 1990 Unico (magnum) is off the charts. Powerful yet also sensual, the 1990 impresses for its depth and allure. A host of dark red cherry, plum and smoke nuanced finish support the veins of underlying acidity that give the wine its freshness and tension, while the explosive finish leaves everyone speechless. Until the 1982…

The Best of Rioja and Ribera del Duero (Nov 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Explosive, warm aromas of redcurrant, black plum, chestnut, tobacco and spice; mellow oak notes. Lush, dense and solidly structured; shows a distinctly more mineral character than the Valbuena and less pliant, drier flavors. Sound acidity contributes to the impression of backbone and thrust. Finishes with slightly dry tannins.

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1988 Yquem is similar to the bottle I tasted two years earlier, one of my favorite vintages from that decade. Orange pith, quince, wax resin, and mandarin blossom on the nose, yet there is more control and focus than in other warmer vintages. The palate is underpinned by a wonderful frisson of acidity that…

Everyday Piedmont, Part 1 (Sep 2021)

The 2019 Gaia & Rey may be one of the finest vintages I have ever tasted of this white. Creamy, ample and expressive, the 2019 is a wonderfully, classy, polished wine. All the elements come together so effortlessly here. Bright and focused, the 2019 is fabulous and I say that as someone who is not…

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2014 Masseto continues to develop into a very pretty wine. Silky, medium in body and gracious, the 2014 is all about understatement. Each time I taste it, I uncover a new layer of dimension and nuance I did not see before. I expect the 2014 will develop along the lines of the 2005 and…

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Full ruby-red. Aromas of red cherry, blackberry, licorice and minerals. Juicy and tightly wound but pliant, offering smooth black and red fruit flavors complicated by licorice and fresh herbs. Classically dry and long, finishing with supple but firm tannins and a bright floral element. It’s hard to argue with this entry-level Brunello’s quality. I find…