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Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2009 Giscours has almost exactly the same nose as the last bottles, with hints of curry leaf infusing the black fruit. It still leans a little towards Saint-Julien in style, maybe with some Brettanomyces. Quite classic in style, the palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and graphite-infused black fruit. It’s taut and fresh with…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2009 Giscours has almost exactly the same nose as the last bottles, with hints of curry leaf infusing the black fruit. It still leans a little towards Saint-Julien in style, maybe with some Brettanomyces. Quite classic in style, the palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and graphite-infused black fruit. It’s taut and fresh with…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1978 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage I last tasted in 2009, my own bottle that surpassed expectations. Here again, it proves to be the highlight of this period with vestiges of red berry fruit, peppermint and cigar humidor (very similar to my previous tasting note.) The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, fresh and…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1986 Cos d’Estournel replicates the performance from my 30-year on tasting that I conducted a few months back. The bouquet is attractive with mint and juniper berries that grab the attention of the olfactory senses, later accompanied by liquorice and graphite. The palate is understated on the entry but then builds in the mouth…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Slightly musty aromas of currant and cigar box. Fat and full, but with an intrusive dry edge suppressing the wine fruit and verve and repeating on the finish. I’ve had a couple of better bottles of this wine, but it apparent that the cellar pollution problems that plagued this chateau between 1985 and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that has been variable over the years and this example merely adds to the bottle-to-bottle inconsistency. It starts promisingly with quite a mineral-driven bouquet, more intensity than the ’82 Beychevelle, plenty of black fruit mixed with undergrowth and leather, a touch of chlorophyll too. The palate is medium-bodied and…