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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is very tight on the nose and has a tough time following the more expressive Corton Clos du Roi. It feels bashful and sultry. The palate is medium-bodied with firm, slightly obdurate tannins, a bit static, with more flesh needed toward the finish. A bit over-awed by other…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Opaque ruby. Displays lively dark fruit, cracked pepper and herb scents and flavors, with a floral nuance in the background. In a savory, Old World style, showing good depth, supple texture and no easy sweetness. Gentle tannins add shape and closing grip to the finish, which echoes the spicy note.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good medium red. Aromas of raspberry, camphor, pepper and leather. Layered and fairly deep, with a slight rusticity to the flavors of red berries, mint and camphor. Combining a serious spine and restrained sweetness, this firmly tannic, moderately long ’06 needs more time in bottle.

Cellar Favorite: 1966 & 1990 Clinet (Apr 2022)

My previous encounter with the 1990 Clinet was out of magnum, circa the release of my Pomerol tome around a decade ago. It was impressive. However, this bottle suggests that this lauded Pomerol is beginning to stumble after 30 years. Rather volatile on the nose, the 1990 offers smudged black cherries, kirsch, green olives and…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good deep medium color. Compelling nose combines caramel, clove, smoke, black raspberry and a floral nuance. Very concentrated and rich, but sound acids and strong extract give this wine lovely shape and firmness in the mouth. Impressively long finish. While the ’90 Clinet can’t match the ’89 for density, its balance and freshness will…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Calon-Ségur is a vintage that I have tasted regularly over the years. I tasted this wine on two separate occasions, firstly at the property in December 2018 and secondly at a dinner in London in July 2019. Strangely, the latter was a far superior bottle. At 30-years of age it sports thin bricking…