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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(66% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 4% petit verdot, a 38% selection for the grand vin; 14% alcohol) Deep ruby. D elicate cassis, violet and inky aromas show an earthy, almost animal nuance. Then clean, dense and tight on the palate, with flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes smooth and long, with hints of dark…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pavillon Rouge has a delightful, elegant bouquet with wild strawberry, blackberry and cedar aromas, very well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, veins of blue fruit emerging with time in the glass and with just a touch of salted liquorice towards the finish. This could be à point. Tasted…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good deep red. Rather wild aromas of spicy cassis, scorched earth, minerals and truffle, plus a resiny nuance. Broad, lush and powerful for a second wine, with creamy dark berry, graphite and underbrush flavors of noteworthy intensity. I find more porcini than fresh fruit here, and the tannins are still youthfully chewy, but this is…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Sweet, ripe aromas of peach and white flowers. Plush and harmonious but fresh, with sweet stone fruit flavors complicated by flowers and spices. Finishes broad and long, with enticing high notes.

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good bright deep red. Complex, primary aromas of black cherry and minerals. Sweet, lush and layered, with red raspberry fruit complicated by underbrush, mint and spices. A firm but harmonious edge of acidity contributes to the impression of structure. This broad, classically dry wine finishes with sweet tannins and palate-saturating persistence. Very sexy but built…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Saturated medium red color. Nose shows a chocolatey ripeness. Then surprisingly fat and full, conveying an impression of solidity. Voluminous and brawny for this cuvee The typically lower yield in these vines-barely 30 hectoliters per hectare in ’04, according to Villette-produced a wine with abnormal concentration and structure for the vintage. The tannins today are…