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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good ruby-red color. Expressive, pungent aromas of blueberry, raspberry, game and roasted nuts. Sweet and velvety yet still rather closed following the bottling. Lively acidity gives the wine a penetrating quality. Not quite as weighty as the ’96, but stylish and impeccably balanced.

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good color for the vintage. Spicy oak currently dominates black cherry on the nose Muscular and ripe; going through a rather tough stage at present, but has good flavor. This will need time to open.

Cellar Favorite: 1995 Haut-Brion (Nov 2021)

This 1995 Haut-Brion was served blind during the summer at a private dinner in Bordeaux, a bottle with perfect provenance. It is a vintage that I have drunk several times, but not since 2013. Deep in colour, the 1995 has plenty of black fruit on the nose, displaying a distinctive briny influence, classic in style…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red-ruby. Sweet, highly expressive aromas of redcurrant, hot stones, roasted plum, woodsmoke and tobacco. Fuller and more textured in the middle palate, with a chewy, tactile mouth feel that suggests strong extract and a wonderfully pliant texture. A firm mineral underpinning and sound acids frame the fruit. Expansive and seductively sweet in…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good medium ruby. Aromatic nose combines crystallized blackberry, cassis, shoe polish and mint. Tight, firm and rather ungiving in the mouth, with moderately ripe, muscular flavors of cassis, licorice and shoe polish. Doesn’t quite deliver the flavor interest promised by the nose.

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

A total turn-on, the 1995 Comtes de Champagne is utterly magnificent. Orange marmalade, mint, smoke, hazelnuts, white truffles and honey blossom come to life in an exquisite, resonant Champagne that delivers the goods, big time. Opulent and exotic yet miraculously fresh for a 20 year-old wine, the 1995 Comtes is in a beautiful spot to…