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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru is beautifully defined on the nose, delivering raspberry, wild strawberry and rose petal scents and superb mineralité . The medium-bodied palate displays supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Very tight at the moment, possibly a Grand Cru that is entering a closed phase. Yet there is freshness and…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of black fruit with veins of blueberry, infused with crushed rock and rose petal. Full of tension, this is classic Ruchottes. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, and lightly spiced, displaying an unerring sense of symmetry toward the saline finish. It needs bottle age to…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru includes 15% whole cluster fruit this year. This was very tight, almost surly on the nose following on from the Echézeaux, wet limestone suffusing the dark berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins. There is an electric line of acidity here, and superb mineralité and symmetry toward a…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is tight on the nose but only needs modest aeration to reveal intense blackberry and bilberry fruit, superb mineralité, and faint hints of licorice patiently waiting in the wings. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, crisp acidity and a persistent saline finish. Excellent.

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Alter Ego is pliant, textured and supple. Expressive floral notes add inner perfume and freshness to a core of dark red berry fruit, mocha, new leather, spice and menthol. A wine of striking textural richness, Alter Ago also remains light on its feet and wonderfully nuanced. The 13% alcohol, low by present-day standards,…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Alter Ego was bottled a little later than others at the end of August 2019. Deep garnet in colour, it has a refined bouquet with blackberry, cedar, crushed violets, hints of orange pith and incense, all very well defined but understated. The palate is medium-bodied with a lightly spiced entry. Fine tannins, a…