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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Ausone is magnificent. A wine of soaring intensity and class, the 2005 dazzles from the very first taste. The aromatics alone are captivating, with notes of cinnamon, mint, crushed rocks, blood orange, mocha and incense. Graceful and stately in bearing, the 2005 boasts tremendous purity and breathtaking balance. Readers will find a stunning…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep ruby-red. Penetrating aromas of cassis and minerals. The nose does not prepare one for this huge, improbably sweet, palate-saturating wine, whose pungent minerality and epic intensity makes it solid as a rock. The three-dimensional texture here is uncanny, and the wine’s explosive finishing flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate and minerals persist for minutes….

Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1981 is a fairly pointed, focused Comtes de Champagne. There is tons of clarity and freshness to be found in the glass, with only the faintest hints of oxidation coming through from time to time. This slender, understated Comtes is all class and balance. Well-stored bottles should drink well for another decade.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good medium red. Dark raspberry, coffee and spicy oak on the nose; this wine’s flamboyant ripeness almost came as a shock following the more reticent 2006s. Big, round, plush and ripe, with spicy dark raspberry and chocolate flavors and considerable density for village wine. Quite smooth and harmonious at the moment: Roumier volunteered that this…

Australia Rediscovers Its Mojo (Mar 2016)

(raised in new American oak hogsheads for 17 months): Deep ruby. Fragrant aromas of spice- and smoke-accented dark berries and cherry pit. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering subtly sweet bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors with hints of vanilla and mocha. Fine-grained tannins give structure to the long, penetrating finish, which leaves toasty…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1996 Ornellaia (magnum) is one of the less-polished wines in this tasting. The tannins are a touch harsh and prominent, while the aromas and flavors tend towards fully mature suggestions of truffles and beef bouillon. In 1996 Ornellaia is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, marking the first move towards a…