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Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2018 Batàr is perfumed and gracious, with lovely orchard fruit, chamomile and floral notes that lift effortlessly from the glass. A wine of total precision and nuance, the 2018 is simply exquisite today. Stylistically it is a bit more perfumed and lighter than is the norm.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Corton Grand Cru contains fruit from plots of replanted vines for the first time this year, and also 80% whole bunches. Bertrand de Villaine told me that the blending was done a little later than their other crus. Matured in 100% new oak, it has an attractive bouquet of brambly red fruit, blueberry…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(aging in a single new 228-liter barrel): Bright light-medium yellow. Strong nutty oak on the spicy nose. The fattest and sweetest of these 2013s, but without quite the inner-mouth tension of the Chevalier. But the long, broad, expanding finish conveys an impression of great solidity, with the wine’s deeply pitched fruit-and-spice aftertaste enrobed by its…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(aging in a single new 228-liter barrel): Bright light-medium yellow. Strong nutty oak on the spicy nose. The fattest and sweetest of these 2013s, but without quite the inner-mouth tension of the Chevalier. But the long, broad, expanding finish conveys an impression of great solidity, with the wine’s deeply pitched fruit-and-spice aftertaste enrobed by its…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Beychevelle is one of the surprise packages of this almost forgotten vintage. It has a light bouquet with blackberry, iodine and cedar scents—simple but effective. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy texture and fine acidity. There is an almost pastille-like purity to this Saint-Julien, pretty and winsome, plus it gains depth with…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Dutruch Grand Poujeaux has an attractive bouquet with blackberry, cedar and touches of cigar smoke, gaining delineation with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a sapid entry and gentle grip, quite saline in character with decent weight on the finish. There is still a little attenuation, but it remains an above-par Moulis-en-Médoc.