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Cellar Favorite: Champagne Louis Roederer – Inflection Points

The 1990 Cristal takes us back to another era at Roederer. There is little doubt the 1990 has aged beautifully. At the same time, there is a bit of edginess, of hardness, in the contours that shows just how much quality has soared at Roederer since then. This is the result of a change in…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On (Jun 2024)

The 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape opens with meaty gradations, followed by dried fruits, forest floor, tobacco and grilled herbs. Savory and expressive, this fleshy red remains firmly structured by grippy tannins yet captures wonderful freshness. Finishing with lovely persistence, the 2005 should continue to drink well over the next five years.

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Ruby-red. Blackberry and cassis on the nose, with a complex set of earth, herb and floral qualities adding complexity. Deep and sweet, with bitter cherry and candied licorice flavors and youthfully firm tannins but no hardness. Turns more lively on the finish, picking up a spicy red berry character and leaving a long, pungent herbal…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(an assemblage of eight village parcels from all over Gevrey-Chambertin, some very well placed and three on the wrong side of the Route Nationale): Bright red. Complex, rather cool nose combines scents of black raspberry, black cherry, black tea, peony and elderberry. Sweet, plush and thick for village wine, with a creamy old-vines quality leavened…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale bright yellow. Stone fruits, clove oil and hazelnut on the nose. Then densely packed and intense but not yet complex in the mouth, with terrific intensity to its peach-dominated flavor. Has a thickness that’s leavened by strong finishing minerality. Distinctly crunchy on the long finish. This seems midway between 2009 and 2010 in style,…

2002 and 2001 White Burgundies (Sep 2003)

Reticent nose hints at flowers, minerals and mint. Rich but dry, with bright grapefruity acidity perking up the mid-palate but not yet integrated into the wine’s finish. This offers good texture but is a bit disjointed today and in need of a year or two of patience.