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Horizontal Tasting of Napa Valley’s 2004 Cabernets (Jun 2015)

(14.1% alcohol): Bright, dark red with ruby highlights. Superripe but highly complex nose exudes scents of blueberry, violet, minerals, licorice, game and cocoa powder. Plush and seamless on the palate, conveying a wonderfully silky mouth feel to the dark fruit, coffee and licorice flavors; less animal in character than some other very ripe vintages of…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cheval Blanc is magnificent. In a vintage in which so many wines are opulent and dense, Cheval Blanc maintains striking translucence while conveying the natural radiance of the year. Silky, perfumed and exceptionally vivid, the 2018 pulses with energy from start to finish. Sage, mint, lavender and mocha all meld together on the…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

When I tasted the 2018 Cheval Blanc from barrel, I felt that it deserved a very good score, though not one that implied potential perfection. The bottle was tasted upon opening, but I only began to pen my tasting note after 3–4 hours’ decanting. I still find the bouquet more open than many recent vintages,…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Good deep ruby-red. Minerals and smoked meat complement bright blackcurrant on the nose. Dense but juicy on the palate, with fresh red and black berry flavors lingering nicely through the long minerally, floral finish. Lovely acidity nicely extends the flavors at the back. A second sample I tried on another day in a different venue…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Gloria is marked by slight hints of reduction in the bouquet. Violets, crushed roses, cinnamon and savory herbs are all layered into the finish. Overall, this is a fleeting, ethereal wine with limited depth and complexity. If the reduction blows off, the fruit may emerge a little more fully. We will see.

2018 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2021)

The 2018 Sassicaia is fabulous. Bright and beautifully poised, the 2018 opens with brilliant aromatics that make a strong first impression. Delicate and light on its feet, the 2018 is a regal wine that is going to need a number of years to come into its own. Sassicaia is the most finessed of Bolgheri’s top…