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Changing Gears in Barossa (Jun 2023)

This 2018 Shiraz Mount Edelstone is made with fruit from vines planted in 1912. It is a reserved yet highly complex Barossan style bringing broody aromas of roasted meats, soy sauce, blackberry, and fennel seed with oak in good support. Richly powered, it retains its composure while rippling with black olive and blackberry flavors kept…

2018 Brunello di Montalcino: The Rubik’s Cube Vintage (Dec 2022)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of grace and refinement, with exotic spice nuances that blow off to reveal wild strawberries, rosemary, dried flowers and worn leather. It’s unbelievably lifted and refined for the vintage, with a wave of saline-tinged red fruits that cascade across a core of zesty acidity. There’s an edginess…

New Releases from Napa Valley: 2012 and 2013 (Dec 2014)

The 2012 IX Estate is the biggest and most powerful of these wines. Firm tannins provide the backdrop for a huge core of fruit as this creamy, voluptuous Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend shows off its considerable personality. Game, smoke and tobacco add nuance on the finish. The IX Estate brings together some of the sensuality of…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru displays a lot of whole bunch on the nose, but they seem to dominate the fruit profile and terroir, notwithstanding the mineralité. The palate is lighter, more elegant than others, avoiding the sweet ripe fruit of its peers, but it lacks a bit of purity and the stems seem too…

2014 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: A Dark Horse Emerges (Jan 2025)

The 2014 IX Estate is the most vibrant of the 2014s at Colgin. Bright acids and beams of tannin give the IX notable energy, which works so well in conveying the personality of the site in the medium-bodied style of the year. Dried herbs, espresso, crushed rocks, iron and graphite infuse the 2014 with tons…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Roc de Cambes is dense, powerful and savory in style. Iron, grilled herbs, tobacco and cedar are some of the many notes that give the wine its distinctive feral personality. Energetic and vibrant in the glass, it offers notable intensity in a wild, almost unrestrained style. This especially forbidding, rustic 2015 needs a…