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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Vosne-Romanée Village seems to miss some fruit expression on the nose at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins, a little hollow on the mid-palate with a “bony” finish. Not the favorite of the Village Crus from Leroux this year.

Barbaresco’s Stellar 2011s (Oct 2014)

The 2009 Barbaresco Pajé Vecchie Viti shows the heat of the vintage in its powerful, imposing structure. There is plenty of depth and intensity in the glass, but at the same time, the flavors are also more forward. The Vecchie Viti has a bit more tannin and structure than the straight Pajé, which itself is…

Saar and Ruwer 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (May 2017)

A vivid evocation of crushed stone and pleasantly earthy as well as smoky ore-like notes strikingly inform this bottling, whose pungent, piquant evocation of seed- and peel-tinged grapefruit, kumquat and lemon is almost certainly site-typical and strikingly reminiscent of the corresponding 2014. Ripe peach offers welcome succulence on a subtly silken palate palpably high in…

2025 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Siepi is a supremely elegant, polished wine. Even so, it has shut down significantly since I tasted it just prior to bottling, likely a reflection of the decision to use a selection of more vibrant Sangioveses for the blend in this vintage. Dark red/purplish fruit, lavender, menthol and licorice build nicely with a…

Campania: Forgotten Realms (May 2020)

Crushed plums, cherries, and blueberries are offset by spiced orange and a hint of tangerine, then further complemented by hints of rosemary, tomato leaf, and finally, animal musk; this only begins to describe the layered bouquet on the 2013 Luigi Tecce Taurasi. On the palate, soft textures usher in fleshy red fruits and citrus-kissed herbal…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Fixin Clos de la Perrière 1er Cru has a rustic bouquet with balsamic-tinged red fruit. There’s some freshness here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, somewhat dry on the mid-palate. The 2014 has a white pepper finish. It’s just a bit sharp. Drink soon.