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1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Deep red-ruby. Aromas of cherry, redcurrant, animal fur, spice and tobacco; much less primary than the ’98. Redcurrant and smoke flavors seem a bit more evolved than those of the earlier bottling. Here the dusty tannins are a bit less ripe and there’s a hint of greenness on the finish, which also features notes of…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Dark red. Musky, cool aromas of blueberry, mint, spices and herbs. Supple and fine-grained but dry and a bit herbal, conveying an impression of moderate ripeness. Licorice, spice and herb notes give freshness to the middle palate, but the finish turns dusty and a bit dry, showing modest persistence.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot) Dark ruby-purple. Grapey, somewhat simple aromas of red and black fruits and flowers. Then fresh and bright in the mouth, with lively acidity lifting the delicate black fruit, tobacco leaf and mineral flavors. Finishes nicely vinous and moderately long.

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

From Beaumes: Ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black cherry, gunflint and spices. Sweet and liqueur-like in the mouth, with an almost jammy ripeness. But this very powerful, lush sample saturates the palate and lingers impressively. From Peleat, with a bit of Rocoules due to the tiny volume in 2003: Saturated medium ruby. Currant, minerals, tar and…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Now we take the monster out of his cage, Jean-Louis warned me before pouring this. Inky, almost black in color. Elemental, hugely concentrated and powerful on the nose, which slowly unveils aromas of dark cherry liqueur, blackberry, cassis, espresso and a deep note of sweet tobacco. Impossibly rich and dense on the palate (the yields…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1970 La Mission Haut-Brion has been inconsistent from bottle to bottle. Evolved in colour, the nose is austere and lacks fruit intensity, rather charmless. The palate is marked by hard tannins and it feels a little hollow towards the finish. It is a mystery why the 1970 is not the calibre of the 1966…