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Valdicava: Brunello di Montalcino 1988-2004 (Nov 2008)

The 1990 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano comes across as rather rustic. It is also a wine of contrasts in that elements of opulence and over-ripeness are accompanied by surprising freshness and vibrancy. Today it is hard to say how this curious inner tension will resolve itself, but at present it appears that…

Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1991 Pichon-Lalande has an autumnal bouquet: roasted chestnut, smoke, loam and decaying leaves coming through. Not impactful, but this is quite elegant and full of charm. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening, and here, maybe the shortcomings of the growing season are more obvious since this is rather one-dimensional. Yet there is…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Very ripe, rich aromas of tangerine, smoke and sweet butter. Big, frothy and full, with slightly exotic, creamy flavors of soft citrus fruits and nutmeg framed and lifted by strong minerally acidity. Very dry, firm and long on the finish, hinting at more flavor complexity to come with further time in bottle.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Very pale, bright color. Knockout nose of lemon, orange blossom, chalk, minerals and flowers offers great lift; pristine and vibrant. Wonderfully ripe, pure and perfumed in the mouth, with penetrating, sappy acidity contributing to the impression of structure and cut. Very intense lemon, lime, mineral and floral flavors complicated by an exotic suggestion of guava….

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2010)

The estate’s 1996 Brut Femme de Champagne is really quite pretty in the way it balances some of the more mature notes from extended lees aging with the freshness of the vintage. To be sure, this isn’t a blockbuster 1996, but the Femme de Champagne offers plenty of class and elegance in an approachable, delicate…

Pierre, Denis & Jean-Jacques: Doisy-Daëne & L’Extravagance 1942-2013 (Jan 2022)

The 1996 L’Extravagant de Doisy-Daëne has a deep amber hue. It has a very Tokaji nose, well defined, but maybe not as complex as more recent vintages. Barley sugar, creme caramel and caramelised pear, a touch of peach skin. The palate is very well balanced, unctuous and maybe just missing a bit of acidity on…