Archives: Product Reviews

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1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Bright deep ruby. Blackberry, violet, tar, shoe polish and game on the nose, plus a light floral note; at once vibrant and surmuri. Superconcentrated, remarkably intense flavors of crystallized black cherry, cassis and licorice. An extremely persistent wine of noteworthy finesse, yet also one with a powerful structure for aging. One of the standouts of…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

(bottled in 2002) Full medium red. Reticent but highly nuanced nose combines hints of superripe red berries, minerals, truffle, mocha and tar. Rich, thick and velvety, with superb ripeness supported by underlying minerality. Wonderfully dense Barolo, at once round and solid. Very long, slow-mounting finish features big, broad, horizontal tannins. Giacomo told me that this…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Lafite-Rothschild is surprisingly dark in colour. It also has a surprisingly concentrated bouquet with blackberry, sous-bois and brine. Hints of steaming cups of espresso percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a little chewiness on the entry. Quite briny and saline, a little rustic in terms of tannic profile and perhaps…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Bright, dark ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, plum, minerals, graphite, and sexy, coconutty oak; showed a floral note with aeration. Extremely suave, fine-grained and concentrated, with a strong spine of acidity. Finishes firmly tannic, subtle and very long. This should develop slowly.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Rauzan-Ségla shows a little more degradation on the rim, but the nose is fresher than the 2000, offering menthol-tinged black fruit, licorice and earthy scents. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a wonderful line of acidity. This was always snapping at the heels of the 2000 and now appears to have overtaken…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium-deep red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, boysenberry, cedar and spicy oak. Intensely flavored, supple and suave; not especially fleshy or sweet but fresh and surprisingly open today. Offers excellent palate coverage and length. Has plenty of underlying structure but has not yet closed down after the bottling.