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Cellar Favorite: Champagne Louis Roederer – Inflection Points

The 1990 Cristal takes us back to another era at Roederer. There is little doubt the 1990 has aged beautifully. At the same time, there is a bit of edginess, of hardness, in the contours that shows just how much quality has soared at Roederer since then. This is the result of a change in…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

One of the highlights of the range this year, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques is utterly magnificent. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and violet notes flesh out in a voluptuous, racy Burgundy endowed with stunning depth and pure pedigree. With time in the glass the flavors flesh out beautifully. The Clos Saint-Jacques is voluptuous and…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Bright dark red. Deep aromas of black cherry and chocolatey torrefaction show an almost candied ripeness. Broad, sweet and large-scaled, with a saline quality and impressive medicinal reserve to the floral and spice flavors. A rather powerful and ripe yet sappy Clos Saint-Jacques with a slowly mounting, seamless, horizontal finish featuring big, ripe tannins and…

Vinous Table: Elystan Street, London, United Kingdom (Sep 2020)

The second bottle, from an estate I know like the back of my hand, was the 1996 Pontet Canet. One or two people had suggested that this might be past its best; after all, it predates the innovations and application of biodynamics overseen by Alfred Tesseron by several years. On the contrary, it has aged…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts is easily the most reticent and tannic of the three Vosne 1er Crus I tasted. Firm tannins provide the backdrop for an intense, structured Burgundy that will require considerable patience. Iron, smoke, tobacco and dark red fruits inform the incisive finish. The massive tannins will require time to fully soften.