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Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is more reticent and perhaps not quite as complex as the Blanchots on the nose, but with aeration reveals gorgeous scents of dried flowers, hints of honeysuckle and beeswax. In the mouth Valmur is very well balanced and tightly wound, but there is enormous concentration on the back palate…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Pale yellow. Slightly exotic on the nose for Valmur, offering aromas of orange zest, lemon and spices. Then wonderfully silky in the mouth, delivering a sexy sweetness to its pliant flavors of citrus fruits and ginger. The yield here was an almost normal 40 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 25 to 30 for the Blanchots…

Vinous Table: Comice, Paris, France (Mar 2025)

The 2017 Raveneau Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru is in fine shape. A touch of decanting, which I always do for younger Chablis, really allows the aromas, flavors and textures to shine. The 2017 is in the perfect spot today, as it offers a good deal of complexity yet remains quite vibrant. Citrus confit, marzipan, white…

Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2017 Chablis Butteaux 1er Cru perhaps does not quite deliver the same complexity as Raveneau’s other Premier Crus at the moment, but it is more surly and backward in style. The palate is well balanced with a hint of orange rind and quince on the entry, a delicate touch of spice (curry leaf?) on…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good deep red. Explosive, perfumed nose offers kirsch, licorice and faded flowers. Sappy and sweet but nicely delineated and quite backward, with a fine-grained texture and superb inner-palate energy. Best today on the resounding finish.

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1975 Yquem has long been the standout of the decade, and whilst a few years ago it was neck-and-neck with the 1976, now it seems to be pulling ahead. This has a showstopping bouquet with wonderful intensity and delineation. Displaying Seville orange, quince and blood orange, with hints of stem ginger and Japanese yuzu,…