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A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 2005 Talbot was picked from 22 September until 10 October. Having tasted this several times, this might be the best bottle. Deeper in colour than other vintages, it offers much more fruit: blackberry, bilberry and raspberry tinged with cedar and a faint estuarine tang. These aromatics just have more substance than other vintages. The…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full medium ruby. Very primary nose of cassis, licorice, earth and leather, complicated by an almost exotic note of chocolate. Then suave, broad and dry, with a fine-grained texture and very good palate coverage. Doesn’t currently show the lift or intensity of the best Medoc wines of the vintage, but offers a fleshy, solid impression…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright ruby. Sexy oak spices, mint and menthol complicate bright redcurrant and dark plum on the nose. Round but fresh and lively too, with lovely vinosity giving shape and lift to the dark cherry, plum and sweet spice flavors. Offers a fleshy sweetness that’s unusual for the year. This lovely wine finishes with good…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Talbot has a light and fragrant bouquet with red berry fruit, bell pepper and earthy notes, a touch of sage emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a satisfying succulent on the entry, quite fleshy for a Saint-Julien in this vintage, not complexity but judiciously spiced and lively on the finish….

Cellar Favorite: 1990 Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut (Jan 2016)

A well-stored bottled of the 1990 Bollinger R.D. was at its apogee on New Year’s Eve, although I suppose a British taster might have waited even longer. Bollinger is known for its very full-bodied, dry style—this is dinner-table Champagne—so it came as no surprise that the R.D. bottling from the very rich, ripe 1990 growing…