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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)

Deep, bright red. Ripe, roasted aromas of red berry liqueur, smoke and tar. Wonderfully scented and complex in the mouth, with sweet, insinuating flavors of licorice, berries and tar. Shows the vibrancy of the best examples from this vintage. Finishes with powerful tannins and impressive grip. Built for extended aging.

1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Lively, sweet aromas of citrus skin and peach complicated by spice, resin and marzipan from the new oak. Lively, intense apricot and spice flavors are currently quite tightly wound and dominated by the oak. Racy and stylish, but in need of aging. Showing very much as it did a year ago from barrel.

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1997 Climens is a wine that I have tasted three of four times, but it has never convinced me that it is a top-drawer offering. It has quite a powerful, rather mushroom-like bouquet with apricot and dried honey, though I would have liked a little more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied though never really…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Opaque ruby. Exotic aroma of raspberry preserves, cherry pie, Asian spices and garrigue expands with air and picks up a deeper cherry quality. Spicy, mineral-driven red and dark berry flavors are impressively lithe and precise, with silky tannins lending support. This very fresh wine finishes with excellent clarity and spicy persistence.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Managing Director Véronique Dausse opened a 1995 Phélan Ségur on the first day of my visit during en primeur, and it turned out to be a very pleasant surprise since this is not regarded as a particularly auspicious decade for the estate. Showing modest bricking on the rim, the bouquet has a little more pep…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Good medium color. Austere aromas of dark berries and iodine. Ripe bitter cherry fruit; decent richness and texture. Finishes with tongue-coating tannins and modest length.