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Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2012 Brut Rosé Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon offers up hints of red berry fruit, ginger, spice, rosewater, mint and crushed flowers. There is a feeling of classic austerity that runs through the 2012. I would prefer to cellar this for at least a few years, as it is quite reticent at this stage. Chalk, mint,…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2017 Brut Blanc de Blancs is bright and focused, with lovely persistence and energy throughout. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint and white pepper all grace this taut, mid-weight Blanc de Blancs from Deutz. Drink it over the next handful of years.

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2018 Monte Bello is ridiculously young. There’s plenty of energy and drive, but writing a note at this point is rather superfluous. Readers should not plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. Early tastings suggest the 2018 is a Monte Bello built on linear, savory intensity more than volume. I very much like the…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 L'Évangile, 100% Merlot for this first time, is just as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel. Dark, sumptuous and wonderfully inviting, the 2017 has so much to offer. Dark fruit, spice, mocha, leather and licorice infuse the 2017 with notable depth. Time in the glass brings out lovely aromatic top notes…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 L’Evangile is 100% Merlot since frost denied the estate its usual Cabernet Franc. It has a refined bouquet with raspberry and blackcurrant fruit, touches of undergrowth and crushed stone, and floral scents that emerge with time. Yet, I still miss the contribution of the Cabernet Franc. Likewise, the palate is silky smooth with…

Sicily: Welcome to the Revolution (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé is an aromatic rollercoaster of tropical fruits and nectars, blending mango and papaya with peach preserves, then exotic sweet spices and florals, yet with an airy smoky note that pulls it all together. This is weighty, like honey, and nearly as sweet, with bright acids and a saline-mineral…