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A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with noticeable use of whole cluster that will put off those who dislike stems, though I appreciate this and find it lends freshness and complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins mainly red fruit laced with Five Spice and white pepper. It gains some depth…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Medium red. Reticent, medicinal nose hints at cherry, raspberry, licorice and herbs. More tightly wound and spicy than the village Gevrey, conveying a slightly darker fruit character and a suggestion of medicinal reserve. Finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and lingering notes of licorice, spices and black pepper.

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Coste di Rose is a delicate, understated Barolo that will need a bit of time to fully emerge. There's lovely purity to the fruit here, but also some angular contours that need to resolve. The 2018 is a mid-weight wine in the style of the vintage, and yet there is fine balance.

Campania: Change Is Imminent…Or Is It? (Jun 2023)

Dark and brooding in the glass, the 2014 Taurasi Riserva Della Società grumbles up with depths of crushed plum, tobacco and earth tones lifted by balsamic spice and camphor. The longer it spends in the glass, the more complex it becomes, adding licorice, dark chocolate and lavender to the mix. This is elegant with textures…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(a blend of 17 parcels) Bright ruby-red. Pungent, perfumed nose melds black and red raspberry, smoked meat, flint and minerals; I would describe this as a Chambolle style of Gevrey. Then fat, pliant and sweet, with a light touch and nice definition to the flavors of red and black fruits, smoke and minerals. Finishes with…

Northern Rhône 2023: The Art of Perseverance (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Condrieu La Bonnette showcases redolent apricot, honeysuckle, banana and white peach tones. Medium-bodied with lifting freshness and spot-on balance, the 2023 is absolutely delicious. This is a magnificent Condrieu. True to Rostaing’s house style, this Condrieu sees no oak and its malolactic conversion was blocked to preserve both aromatic purity and citrus-like acidity.