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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium ruby-red. Raspberry, tobacco, smoke, olive and nutty oak on the nose. Distinctly drier in the mouth than the 2002 or 2003, with bright fruit flavors but also an obvious herbal component. Precise but uncompromisingly dry, and dominated today by its firm tannic spine. The Derenoncourt era began with the 2002.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Cos d’Estournel was picked between 27 September and 14 October and comprises of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. At the time it was compared with the 1966 and 1986 vintages. I appreciate the bouquet: melted dark chocolate intermingling with dark berry fruit, clove and tobacco. The amount of Cabernet used was relatively…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Palmer has a relatively straightforward nose, more austere than its peers—not in a negative way, just reserved and a little leafier. The palate is overtly sweet, almost candied on the entry, with a very concentrated orange zest and marmalade sorbet-like quality. This is perhaps missing a little Margaux DNA on the finish, but…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons Oenothèque is drop-dead gorgeous. Lush and exotic, the 2002 Oenothèque offers up a compelling mélange of apricot jam, honey and wild yellow flowers, all with tropical inflections that give the wine its bold, exotic personality. The Oenothèque is dense, powerful and concentrated. In this tasting, it actually comes…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons, the original release and aged on crown seal, is tremendous. Wow. Ample, sweeping and dramatic, the 2002 is utterly captivating. Smoke, graphite, ash, apricot jam and pastry are some of the many nuances that come alive in the glass, with a top note of reduction that is very…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(disgorged May, 2010) Pale gold. Compelling, perfumed bouquet of pear, quince, orange zest, white flowers and minerals, with a powerful suggestion of iodine that builds with air. This taut, mineral-driven Champagne gains flesh and sweetness in the mid-palate, offering deep citrus and orchard fruit flavors and an echo of iodine. For a dense Champagne this…