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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Beaune Clos des Aigrots 1er Cru has an airy bouquet, very transparent with redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit, the 15% new oak nearly integrated. Very minerally. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins. This is a strict and mineral driven Beaune, very tensile but with ample weight and concentration on the finish….

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Clos du Marquis is a rich, explosive wine. Super-ripe dark cherry, red plum, dark spice and pomegranate give the 2020 its effusive, open-knit personality. There’s terrific energy and tons of class here. The purity of the fruit is very fine, yet the tannins are a bit imposing at this stage. Give this a…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Clos du Marquis, matured in 40% new oak, has something almost genteel on the nose, very harmonious, almost “laid back” as lilting blackberry, cigar humidor, loamy aromas unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant salinity on the entry, moderate depth, well balanced with black pepper and sage towards the…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Clos du Marquis needs a little more precision on the nose, dark berry fruit, cedar, touches of sage and crushed iris petals. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite pliant tannins. Gentle grip, but there is certainly structure evident here with quite a tannic finish. This will need time in the cellar. Tasted…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 is an exuberant, plush Clos du Marquis packed with inky, dark fruit. All the signatures of Saint-Julien and this estate are all amplified in the glass. Licorice, lavender, spice and mocha develop, adding gorgeous layers to this decidedly extroverted Clos du Marquis. I haven't always been thrilled with how Clos du Marquis ages,…

Nebbiolo in Its Many Guises: Alto Piemonte & Valtellina (apr 2020)

Nervi's 2016 Gattinara from Nervi is superb. Sweet red cherry, mint, juniper berry and wild flowers are some of the many notes that soar out of the glass. The 2016 is distinguished by its brilliant aromatic presence and tremendous purity of fruit. Even just bottled, the 2016 exudes precision and nuance to burn. Of course,…