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New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

Saturated purple-black ruby. Complex, intense nose of dark fruits, pepper and sage. There is uncommon richness on the palate expressive of stewed prunes, bitter-sweet chocolate and candied fruit. Somewhat unevolved today, with palate-gripping tannins and a notable acid presence, it finishes very long, with a strong dose of minerality. (I should add that a barrel…

Chianti Classico: Riding Out the Storm (Jul 2025)

The 2022 Le Pergole Torte is every bit as magnificent as it was last year. Deep and expansive in the glass, with stunning depth, the 2022 stains the palate with layers of dark fruit, mocha, new leather and cedar. The 2022 starts to blossom with just a bit of time in the glass, leading to…

Abruzzo: Trials and Tribulations (Sep 2024)

More savory than sweet, the 2020 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo slowly opens with a rich blend of raw almonds and smoky crushed stone, giving way to dried nectarines and hints of sage. This seductress is ripe and succulent upon entry, yet with a salty, sultry core of minerality, blending sour lime with apricots and liquid stone. The…

Bonjour Jura! (Aug 2024)

The expressive 2018 Côtes du Jura Les Grands Teppes Vieilles Vignes originates from vines planted in 1919. It bursts onto the scene with pronounced notes of hay, chamomile, flintstone, lemon zest and baked apple. On the palate, the 2018 is intense, concentrated and boldly structured, yet perfectly balanced by lively acidity. The finish is remarkably…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Rauzan-Ségla has a more earthy bouquet, with blackberry, autumn leaves, gravel and iris flower scents that gradually unfurl in the glass. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, with sappy black fruit, refined and focused, quite sensual and cohesive. There is beguiling elegance on the finish, though it is quite backward, which explains why…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Rauzan-Ségla has a more earthy bouquet, with blackberry, autumn leaves, gravel and iris flower scents that gradually unfurl in the glass. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied, with sappy black fruit, refined and focused, quite sensual and cohesive. There is beguiling elegance on the finish, though it is quite backward, which explains why…