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Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru has evidence of TCA on the nose that obscures the terroir and renders it a little monochromatic. The palate is balanced, with a keen line of acidity, solid structure and notable salinity, cohering nicely toward the close so that it at least finishes at its high point. But, I’m left…

Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Redigaffi attractive if somewhat slender wine. Lavender, dried flowers, mint and sweet plum infuse this very pretty, refined edition of the flagship Redigaffi. The 2014 has fleshed out nicely over the last year, especially on the mid-palate and finish, where the wine was once much less fully formed. There is more than enough…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

After all these years, the 2003 Dom Pérignon Rosé has finally started to be expressive. In this tasting, the 2003 is distinguished by its vertical build and a real sense of gravitas. The natural power of the year – once quite hidden – now comes through loud and clear.

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light orange. Heady red berry and citrus fruit aromas are complicated by smoky minerals, potpourri and tarragon. Broad and weighty on the palate, offering intense raspberry and blood orange flavors and a bright mineral overlay. No way that I’d have guessed that this came from a hot vintage like ’03. Closes smoky, stony and extremely…

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 2006 Mouton Rothschild is a vintage that I have not encountered for some time. Compared directly against the 2008, it is deeper in colour. Quite intense dark blackberry and Dorset plum scents, just a touch of liquorice emerges with time that becomes more mentholé with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite…

2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being (Mar 2025)

The 2022 Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru is a real head-turner. What a wine! As is so often the case, Romanée St. Vivant is not an obvious wine, rather it is a Burgundy of detail, of understatement, of total class. The aromatics alone are mesmerizing. Silky tannins wrap around a core of red-toned fruit, mint,…