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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village had been racked three weeks earlier. I tasted from a used barrel, but the final blend will include 20% new wood. The perfumed nose, mainly of black fruit here, reveals a touch of pressed iris that is nicely defined. The palate is replete with crunchy black fruit and a hint of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good ruby-red. Roasted plum, currant and leather on the nose. Thick, rich and deep, with uncanny sweetness and mouth coverage for this bottling. Finishes very long, with a suggestion of dried fruits and big tannins that are even sweeter than those of the 2005 (the IPT here is 71, vs. 65 in the ’05).

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Clos du Marquis does not have the amplitude or complexity of the 2003 Pontensac on the nose, with slightly muffled red fruit, leather and baking powder scents. It does improve, however, in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, tobacco, light graphite and dried blood notes. Maybe just missing the…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Plum and roasted nuts on the nose. Large-scaled, vinous and deep; thick fruit is given clarity by sound acidity. Very long and subtle on the finish, with serious but harmonious tannins. An outstanding second label, as good as most classified growths from St. Julien.

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 2006 Pavie is now showing a little bricking on the rim. The bouquet is a little Bretty though not the worst you will find, with red berry fruit, menthol, star anise and light tarry scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a rather medicinal but decent entry, quite dense tannins and a heady, opulent finish….

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Saturated bright ruby. The fruit-driven aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, violet pastille, espresso, minerals and sexy oak offer superb perfume. Hugely rich and sweet but with outstanding inner-mouth minerality and energy and enticing violet lift. For all its ripeness, there’s nothing roasted about this superconcentrated Saint-Emilion; in fact, this wine is quite backward and reserved…