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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation,…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

What more needs to be said about the 1982 Latour? Tasted numerous times, this is the benchmark for the Left Bank. A heavenly nose of graphite-infused black fruit, so precise and focused, with an underlying seriousness that sets it apart from the other First Growths. The palate is utter class, regal and poised, with brilliant…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Duo de Conseillante is soft, open-knit and quite pretty. Sourced from some of the sandier plots on the estate, the Duo is pliant and expressive, but also shows a bit more of the elevated ripeness of the year, as these parcels don’t retain as much moisture as the vineyards that are typically used…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Duo de Conseillante, matured in 50% new oak, has a pure, winsome bouquet of pretty red cherry and strawberry confit. The fresh palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, a slightly powdery texture and a brisk, saline finish. Crack this open over the next four to six years, since it can last longer than…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice has a very attractive nose, certainly much better than the Village Cru, with well-defined red berry fruit, sous-bois and morels. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, quite elegant in style with a cohesive, mocha-tinged finish. This should age well in bottle.

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Bright ruby. Alluring aromas of framboise, cherry-vanilla, potpourri and smoky minerals. Completely stains the palate with sweet red and dark berry compote flavors sexed up by candied flowers and vanilla. For a wine with such flavor impact this is shockingly lithe, showing excellent finishing precision and persistence. And it’s awfully seductive right now.