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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Aromas of currant, black cherry, licorice, minerals and flowers. Thick, sweet and deep; still young but in a gentler, lower-acid style than either the ’86 or ’96. Still, this boasts sneaky intensity and wonderful persistence. Tannins are substantial but thoroughly ripe. Drink 2004 through 2025.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The bottle of 1982 Léoville Las-Cases was sadly out of condition, though fortunately I tasted another example at a private dinner in Bordeaux a few weeks later. To be honest, I have always preferred the 1985 or 1986 to this vintage, and this gives me no reason to change my mind. It has a surliness…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

Sadly, it is not a great night for Bordeaux. The 1982 Léoville Las Cases is powerful but also incredibly compact, with little appeal or mid-palate depth. This is a very stubborn wine, even within the context of Las Cases.

Simply…..Dom Pérignon (Jan 2009)

These four vintages of Dom Pérignon provide a fascinating snapshot of how the house has performed in recent years. The 1999 Dom Pérignon is a little flabbier than the 2000. Smoke, toastiness, tar and ripe fruit emerge from the glass in a generous, expansive style. The 1999 offers more body than the 2000 but the…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Green-tinted gold. Tightly wound lime and pink grapefruit aromas open slowly to reveal a gently smoky mineral and floral character, with a light kiss of green cardamom adding interest. Very fresh on the palate, with youthful citrus and green apple flavors giving way to slightly riper blood orange and pear. Finishes firm and dry, with…

The Judgement of Clapham Junction (Mar 2022)

The 1985 Mouton-Rothschild came from magnum. Unfortunately, there was a little cork taint on the nose, so this tasting note actually comes from a bottle that I tasted in Bordeaux. The bouquet is open, very classic in style, perhaps blind more like the 1986 with scents of pine cones and undergrowth. It was always quite…