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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Initially mute nose opened slowly to reveal complex aromas of raspberry, plum, hot stones, tobacco, saddle leather and toffee. Really explodes on the palate; lush and minerally, with a compelling note of woodsmoke and firm acidity. Wonderful combination of sweetness and vibrancy. Finishes very long and subtle, with firm tannins.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Austere but highly complex nose offers dark plum, smoked meat, minerals, spices and earth, along with a whiff of cinders. Then almost surprisingly fat and sweet, with outstanding volume and solidity to its highly complex flavors of black cherry, brown spices, mocha, dried flowers and minerals. A huge wine for this cellar…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Austere but highly complex nose offers dark plum, smoked meat, minerals, spices and earth, along with a whiff of cinders. Then almost surprisingly fat and sweet, with outstanding volume and solidity to its highly complex flavors of black cherry, brown spices, mocha, dried flowers and minerals. A huge wine for this cellar…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Full ruby-red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, cola, root beer and coconut. Thick, dense and concentrated, with exotic, slightly candied dark fruit, caramel, toasted coconut and mineral flavors nicely shaped by firm acids. Shows strong fruit and a major dose of oak on the powerful, backward finish. This can’t quite match the 1998 for sheer depth…

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Deep ruby. Pungent spice and floral notes accent bright red berry and cherry aromas. Deep, fleshy and sweet, with musky underbrush and garrigue adding complexity to the bright, intense red berry flavors. Very rich, in fact one of the more powerful wines of the vintage, with excellent depth and sweetness. The finish is chewy and…

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

(a blend of 60% mourvedre, 20% grenache, 10% syrah and 10% counoise) Saturated ruby-red. Highly complex, very primary, inky nose hints at blackberry, black cherry, licorice, spicecake and tree bark; dominated by the mourvedre. Then dense, thick and sappy in the mouth, with brooding black fruit and mineral flavors and superb precision. Hints of meat…