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Steenwold! South Africa: Ten Years On (Jul 2025)

The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon makes a mockery of my modest score just after bottling. It has a Cabernet Franc-like bouquet even though there is nary a berry in this wine: touches of bell pepper, tobacco and cracked black pepper infusing the fruit. Well-defined, complex and composed, the aromatics are sophisticated. The palate is medium-bodied with…

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 1994 l’Eglise-Clinet has never really shone. It has a very tertiary bouquet that leaves you yearning for more fruit, not that I suspect there was much there in the first place. The palate is medium-bodied, very straight-laced with dry tannins that frame simple black fruit, though it is marred by astringency on the finish….

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Impressive ruby-blue color. Flamboyant aromas of raspberry, kirsch, and chocolate, with a floral topnote from the cabernet franc. Pure crushed fruit in the mouth; dense, voluptuous, and very ripe. Finishes with substantial but very fine tannins. Really seamless wine that should give great pleasure reasonably early.

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright, deep red. Medicinal cherry, wild herbs, licorice and a whiff of menthol on the nose: very Clos Vougeot. Juicy and intense but quite tight in the early going, hiding its personality today. Showed a creamier middle and rather suave tannins with aeration but this rather elegantly styled Clos Vougeot will nonetheless require patience.

Saar & Ruwer: Beauties Despite a Bumpy 2016 (Mar 2018)

Prominent pit-inflected white peach is garlanded with iris, fennel and cress on a forwardly pungent nose and subtly creamy yet brightly juicy palate. There is a striking sense of palpable density and crushed stone suffusion, but not at the expense of clarity (as was the case with this year’s generic Alte Reben bottling). Equally striking…

Saar & Ruwer: Beauties Despite a Bumpy 2016 (Mar 2018)

This represents a thousand-liter lot sourced from 40-year old vines in the original Scharzberg (the traditionally highly-rated vineyard – part of today’s Einzellage Scharzhofberg – that had the misfortune of its name being cooped for a Grosslage). “In years when heat and drought are issues,” insists von Kunow, “the Scharzberg can perform even better than…