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2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Les Forts de Latour has a clean and precise bouquet with blackberry, raspberry and pressed flower scents that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp and focused with a sappy blackberry and bilberry finish that still feels quite grippy. Two bottles were opened, quite different from each other,…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Moderately saturated medium red. Brown spices and oak on the nose. Then pure, dense and complex on the palate, with spicy red fruit flavors and a rather silky texture for the vintage and for this bottling. Comes across as more vivid than the Combottes. This dense, sweet wine has the stuffing to buffer its tannins….

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1995 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in two-thirds new oak, has a very refined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and cedar aromas, very focused and sophisticated. The palate is well balanced with sour red cherries, balsamic and cedar notes, vibrant and full of energy, though you might well argue it doesn’t quite have the panache and…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright dark ruby. Knockout perfumed nose of great purity: cassis, violet, minerals and bitter chocolate. A penetrating wine of outstanding vinosity and verve; offers great tensile strength. Youthfully tight, classic claret whose extremely long finish features very fine tannins. I’m not convinced Ducru has made a wine in recent vintages to equal its ’95 and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2006 Yquem is initially tightly-wound on the nose before revealing enticing scents of mandarin, dried honey, quince and just a very slight adhesive scent. This is well-defined yet certainly demands more coaxing than its peers. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation, a caressing viscous texture with desiccated orange peel and a touch of…