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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent deep ruby color. Very complex aromas of blackcurrant, wild plum, violets, minerals, tar and smoky oak. Dense and supple, with great sweetness of fruit. Doesn’t have quite the sheer power of the ’96, but the flavors build and build. Substantial tannins are chewier than those of the ’96 but hit the palate later. 1986…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Climens has to shake off a little reduction on the nose, eventually revealing dried honey, quince, apple blossom and caramelized pear aromas. The palate is very well balanced with a killer line of acidity that slices through the rich botrytized fruit. It fans out wonderfully towards the second, displaying great depth and concentration,…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2014 Climens has 141g/L residual sugar and was cropped at just 8.8hL/ha. It has a pure and elegant bouquet. Honey, quince and white peach mixes with chamomile – this is irresistible. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh with a bewitching tensile finish. Quite penetrating and…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

Powerful, dense and tightly wound, the 2006 Dom Pérignon is fabulous today. To be sure, the 2006 is a broad, virile Champagne, but I find it compelling because of its phenolic depth and overall intensity. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy adds that August was quite cold and wet, and that ripening only happened at the…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Dark, bright red. Raspberry, spices and crushed stone on the vibrant nose and palate. A distinctly rocky, precise style, offering terrific lift and verve and a steely spine of acidity. Spreads out to saturate the palate without leaving any impression of weight. Lovely lingering perfume. Lay this one down for a while.