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Cellar Favorite: 1982 Château Margaux (May 2015)

The 1982 Château Margaux is a real stunner. An exotic, almost candied bouquet melds into sweet red-hued fruit in a voluptuous, racy Margaux endowed with magnificent purity. Large and ample on the palate, with silky tannins and translucent fruit, the 1982 is rich yet also miraculously seamless. All the elements are in the right place….

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cheval Blanc has another extravagant bouquet with ample red cherries, raspberry preserve, mulberry, fig and singed leather. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite dense and assertive, backward with a sinewy finish that just feels a little forced compared to some of the other wines in this flight. With time in the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright, deep red. Captivating scents of cassis, violet, minerals, bitter chocolate and wild herbs. Extremely fine-grained but also very dense and chewy for young Cheval Blanc, showing great cabernet franc lift and perfume and a downright velvety texture. This deep, multilayered wine was a bit dominated by its brooding tannins and big structure when…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 56/44 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; 3.8 pH; 84 IPT; 14.5% alcohol; a roughly 60% selection for the grand vin Deep ruby-purple. Brooding nose opens slowly with air to reveal concentrated, multifaceted aromas of cassis, violet, coffee, minerals and white pepper. Very rich and dense on entry, displaying concentrated flavors of black fruits,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Aromas of currant, mocha, truffle and smoke. Fat and plump but with only moderate cut to the sweet flavors of red fruits, truffle and smoke. Offers plenty of sex appeal and a high-pH mouth feel but could use a bit more energy (I would never have picked this blind as a wine from…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1995 Yquem is deep gold in colour. According to the estate, potential alcohol levels shot up from 16° at the beginning of harvest to 30° within two weeks. The bouquet bursts from the glass, as before, quite Barsac-like in style with white peach, tangerine, acacia and saffron, a touch of candle wax with time….